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Home » Próxima Estación - Esperanza

Busing Around Central America

Written by on December 29, 2008 – 8:08 pm15 Comments
Chicken Bus In Quepos, Costa Rica

Chicken Bus In Que­pos, Costa Rica

How do we get around when back­pack­ing in Cen­tral Amer­ica? By bus, of course!

But bus­ing around in Cen­tral Amer­ica is not that straight­for­ward. First of all, we have to agree on the def­i­n­i­tion of a bus. If it has no win­dows and no doors, it is still a bus? What if it is painted in flam­boy­ant col­ors, like bright red and yel­low, and has words of wis­dom such as “no pain, no gain”, or “dio bendigo mi alma” writ­ten on the win­dows? And if it takes 5 hours to drive 20 kilo­me­ters? Is it still a bus?

Wel­come to Latin Amer­ica. Most of the buses here are called “chicken buses” by trav­el­ers, because they carry not only pas­sen­gers but the occa­sional live­stock as well. So shar­ing your seat with a chicken or a goat is pretty com­mon, espe­cially if it´s mar­ket day. These old cus­tomized US school buses are often extremely packed, there­fore back­packs are stored either at the back (piled up) or even on the roof of the bus. You’d be sur­prised to see how many peo­ple can fit in the bus — I am con­stantly amazed. If you can still move your arms around you with­out hit­ting too many peo­ple, there is room for more passengers.

Long dis­tances buses are a bit bet­ter. I mean, the win­dows can close and the dri­ver doesn´t seem to be on drug or clin­i­cally insane. But these buses are still going to stop when­ever they feel like it to pick up pas­sen­gers (i.e the mid­dle of a field) and they are quite slow. Nonethe­less, they are cheap — about 1$ per hour. For exam­ple, for a 6 hours trip (i.e Playa Tamarindo to San Jose), you will pay US$6. Can´t beat that! We crossed Panama for $30…

Buses are never ever on time. When­ever I ask “¿a qué hora sale el bus y a qué hora llega?”, the answers is always “más o menos…”. More or less, yes, this is the key word. It also takes ages to buy a ticket because no mat­ter what time we go to the bus sta­tion, there always seems to be a hun­dred of peo­ple queu­ing to go some­where. Buy­ing a ticket from the dri­ver is often the best option, but you may have to stand for the whole trip (may it be 30 min­utes or 12 hours) because all of the seats will be taken by the coura­geous souls who did queue at the station.

Trips are usu­ally pretty chaotic. Peo­ple get on and get off pretty much any­where, and then fight for a seat. Latino music is blast­ing though the bus’ speak­ers, pre­vent­ing any of us to doze off (or to lis­ten to Ipods…). Once in a while, ven­dors climb in the bus and sell drinks, pla­tanos (fried banana chips), pipas (coconut water in a bag), Chris­t­ian crosses, news­pa­pers… they walk up and down the crowded isle and fight their way to the back of the bus, just in case some­one didn’t hear them coming.
Buses are still the best way to travel around. I just wished more roads were paved in Costa Rica…
 
 

Bus Station In Boquete, Panamá

Bus Sta­tion In Boquete, Panamá

Bus To David, Panamá

Bus To David, Panamá

Waiting For The Bus, Costa Rica

Wait­ing For The Bus, Costa Rica

Reading While Waiting...

Read­ing While Waiting…

Bus Station In Filadelfia, Costa Rica

Bus Sta­tion In Filadelfia, Costa Rica

Bus Station In Santa Cruz, Costa Rica

Bus Sta­tion In Santa Cruz, Costa Rica

Related posts:

  1. Faces Of Cen­tral America
  2. Boquete, Chiquiri Province
  3. Snow Fall !
  4. Panamá, Old And New
  5. On The Way To France

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15 Comments »

  • barbara says:

    Salut Zhu,
    I will catch up with your last few days dur­ing my “blog break”.
    I wanted to wish you and your comap­nion a very Happy and healthy New Year !! You started a new year on the road, just the way you like it !
    Wish­ing you safety and many enjoy­able moments.

    Bises and big hugs

  • kyh says:

    Feliz año nuevo, Zhu! Hope you’re hav­ing a great New Year cel­e­bra­tion in Cen­tral Amer­ica! :D

  • Mardé says:

    Great pho­tos, Zhu. Great descrip­tion of those weird buses. A totally dif­fer­ent world! But at least it’s warm and no snow on those wild roads.

  • Zhu says:

    @Final_Transit — I think they find these rides funny too actu­ally… not as much as us though.

    @RG — I think I was read­ing a French book, Malé­fices, that I have picked up some­where. Good luck with the new site, come and bug me to visit when­ever you start it!

    @barbara — Wish you the same! And keep warm, I have heard France was very cold… have some hot chocolate!

    @kyh — New year was quiet because we were in a small vil­lage, but we enjoyed Jan­u­ary 1st with a big adren­a­line rush!

    @Mardé — I would not want to ride these bus with icy roads, for sure!

  • Angela May says:

    This post reminded me of trav­el­ing around South­east Asia on buses. There they had dif­fer­ent lev­els of buses. First class was more expen­sive but had air con­di­tion­ing and nice com­fort­able seats. Third class was an “orange pop­ci­cle bus”. “Orange” because that was the color the buses were painted and “pop­ci­cle” because they were so slow. I believe it was an expres­sion sim­i­lar to the eng­lish expres­sion “slow as cold molasses”.

    The Third class buses may have been slow but well worth the expe­ri­ence. You see more of the “real” coun­try and get to talk with the other peo­ple on the bus. Things you just can’t get through a tour group.

    I am so totally envi­ous of you trav­el­ling and enjoy­ing the expe­ri­ence. I am back to work on Mon­day. :-(

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