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Home » Próxima Estación - Esperanza

Ushuaia, The End Of The World

Written by on February 3, 2009 – 2:33 pm15 Comments | 1 Read this
Far, Far Away...
Far, Far Away…

Trav­el­ing to the South­ern­most city in the world is pretty excit­ing. Sure, it´s a silly sym­bol, but it´s fun to sit by the sea­side and imag­ine Antarc­tica is right there, barely 1,000 kilo­me­ters away. To know that Canada is 13,000 North. To reach the end of the road, literally.

We were not pre­pared for how bizarre and expen­sive was Ushuaia though.

The city is built on a hill. We huffed and puffed our way up with our back­packs, try­ing to find a bed for the night. Hostals down­hill had quoted 50 pesos a night, much more than we were pre­pared to pay. We ended up get­ting an expen­sive dou­ble room because the dorms were packed.

We walked the main street, San Martín. I felt like I was in a giant open-air air­port: expen­sive restau­rants, gear shops, duty free sell­ing flat screen T.V and the lat­est com­put­ers. This was not a city that catered to back­pack­ers. Indeed, cruise ships stop by every­day, cross­ing Cape Horn, and release hordes of Gore-Tex clad tourists will­ing to spend a lot of Pounds or Euro (always wel­come every­where) for an “end of the world” tee-shirt and a cou­ple of plas­tic pen­guins. They are here for a day and leave.

Mean­while, we were stuck in Ushuaia for at least 5 days, because… let´s just say that it´s not that easy to get out of the end of the world. We were also hav­ing trou­bles with­draw­ing money from the ATM. Most we could get was 500 pesos (about $200). How­ever, we like to with­draw money for the week to avoid pay­ing hefty com­mis­sion fees over and over again. Well, we never truly under­stood how ATM worked in Ushuaia. It seemed to be the lot­tery: some­times you could get 600 pesos, some­times 300 pesos.

Prices had raised dra­mat­i­cally and nor our guide­book nor the tourist infor­ma­tion office fact sheets were up to date. We still tried hard to make the most of our stay but it was not easy on a small budget.

We went to visit Glac­ier Mar­tial nearby. We were pretty dis­ap­pointed: there were more snow in our back­yard on any given win­ter than in the val­ley we had came to admire. We vis­ited the Tierra Del Fuego National Park, despite the 50 pesos entry fee (sup­posed to be 30 pesos accord­ing to the tourist info office…). The 4 hours hike was nice: we faced the Bea­gle chan­nel, admired for­est dev­as­tated by Cana­dian beavers (which were intro­duced in Tierra Del Fuego and are an eco­log­i­cal dis­as­ter), we loved the view on top of the moun­tain. Yet, the land­scape was… very sim­i­lar to Canada´s. Ushuaia itself was quite chaotic , but the har­bor (minus the cruise ships) is nice and on a clear day, the sur­round­ing moun­tains show the jagged peaks.

Yet, after five days, we were ready to go. Being at the end of the world is a cool expe­ri­ence but since our bud­get would not allow for Antarc­tica travel (tick­ets were sold every­where in Ushuaia start­ing from $4,000), we fig­ured there were other places to explore in Patagonia.

So we crossed the bor­der back to Chile… en route to the “Park of Pain”.

Welcome To Ushuaia!

Wel­come To Ushuaia!

Ushuaia´s Harbor

Ushuaia´s Har­bor

Going Up To The Glacier

Going Up To The Glacier

Mountains And Snow

Moun­tains And Snow

Tierra Del Fuego National Park

Tierra Del Fuego National Park

Tierra Del Fuego Scenery

Tierra Del Fuego Scenery

Forest...

For­est…

And Flowers

And Flower

Sunset In Ushuaia
Sun­set In Ushuaia

This arti­cle was fea­tured in the Shar­ing Travel Expe­ri­ences travel monthly roundup in Novem­ber 2009.

Related arti­cles:

  1. The Road To The End Of The World
  2. An Argen­tin­ian Coin Story
  3. Costa Rica, Pacific Coast
  4. Beach Bum­ming In Uruguay
  5. Col­or­ful Boca

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15 Comments »

  • Gabriel says:

    Expen­sive as it is, I would die to get to know Ushuaia! To think I’m from Argentina, lived there for 33 years and never got even near the place… I do know some of the South­ern Andes area and it’s true, it def­i­nitely looks like Canada.

  • Kirsten says:

    My aunt and uncle did an Antarc­tic cruise, and a friend of mine is a sci­en­tist and just got back from Antarc­tica, her 3rd year in a row. I’d love to go, but I think it would be more excit­ing to see the end of the world!

    If you can, read Road Fever by Tim Cahill. Two guys set a record for dri­ving from Ushuaia to Point Bar­row, AK. It’s a very funny telling of their trip.

  • Zhu says:

    @Linguist-in-Waiting — Because we wanted to visit the Tor­res Del Paine National Park in Chile (see lat­est post), and the weather was not good at the time… plus it is eas­ier to go through Pun­tas Arenas.

    @Bluefish — I didn´t know the name either, thanks to Diane for edu­cat­ing me!

    @kyh — It´s quite wild and different.

    @DianeCA — Thanks for the name of the flower, I had no idea.

    @silverneurotic — I was amazed myself. I mean, 4000$ is a lot of money but yet it is afford­able I guess. But lots of cruise don´t actu­ally dis­em­bar­que on Antar­tica, I think they just sail nearby.

    @Bill Miller — Yes, it is sum­mer, it could explaint he glac­ier… yet, I think it is a pretty “lame” glac­ier com­pared to those I saw later in Argentina, or even in New Zealand a few years ago.

    @Froggywoogie — You are the most spoiled man in the world. Comes with being French :-)

    @Sidney — It is fun to reach the end of the world :-)

    @Seraphine — Oh, def­i­nitely. Prob­lems are just anec­dotes, and sto­ries later on… part of traveling.

    @RennyBA — I had no idea! I should visit it one day… I meet a few Nor­we­gians in Ushuaia and they found it quite sim­i­lar to home.

    @Gabriel — I think the city only boomed recently with the Antarc­tica… it was not that pop­u­lar last time we were in Argentina in 2002. Let´s face it, it is really far and pub­lic trans­porta­tion is dif­fi­cult. It´s hell to get out of there… I´ll write about that later.

    @Kirsten — Thanks for the book, I´ll try to find it. I wish I could have goneto Antarc­tica, but with a good crew, not on a 2000 peo­ple boat…

  • Anna says:

    Salut Zhu,
    Même si je n’écris pas, je suis silen­cieuse­ment tes aven­tures en Amérique Latine. Ton com­men­taire a retenu mon atten­tion :
    “the Bea­gle chan­nel, admired for­est dev­as­tated by Cana­dian beavers (which were intro­duced in Tierra Del Fuego and are an eco­log­i­cal dis­as­ter)”.
    Matias Cal­lone en parle juste­ment dans son blog :http://matiascallone.blogspot.com/2009/02/cinco-invasiones-foraneas-en-la.html
    En pas­sant, j’espère te faire décou­vrir le blog de cet argentin, tout plein de curiosités.
    Merci encore de nous faire voy­ager avec toi, c’est comme si tu nous emme­nais dans ton sac-à-dos !

  • Max Coutinho says:

    Zhu,

    Expen­sive but beautiful!!

    Now you made me curi­ous about Tierra del Fuego — I must find the courage to go there! :D

    Thanks for another fan­tas­tic chap­ter of your trip!

    Cheers

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