Exploring Salvador is both rewarding and challenging.

It’s rewarding because it’s a fascinating city full of life, history, culture, architectural gems and amazing natural beauty.

And it’s challenging because Salvador is a spread-out maze of steep streets with an upper town, a lower town and ladeiras you shouldn’t wander into. Even in late March, it’s invariably around 35⁰C during the day and 28⁰C at night—it’s so humid and sticky that even the best waterproof mascara creates panda eyes ten minutes into your walk.

Okay, you don’t have to walk. You could 99 your way around Salvador’s main attractions—the lighthouse, the elevator, the Pelô neighbourhood, etc. But then, what’s the point? Take pictures and leave twenty minutes later? For me, the fun part is exploring, not necessarily taking the required souvenir pictures.

And Salvador is actually pretty walkable.

The avenues along the coastline are usually fine. I walked the ten kilometres from the Elevator Lacerda to Pituba a few times, the scenery is gorgeous even though the beaches are not that great for swimming. Some stretches are pretty empty but it’s the kind of “normal empty”, not “shit, there’s nobody around” empty.

The Pelourinho neighbourhood is okay as well, or at least the main streets. I mean, there are plenty of tourists, shops and a few police cars here and there.

I wouldn’t have wandered into Libertade alone because I didn’t know the neighbourhood. Still, honestly, it’s fine—yeah, it’s not a wealthy neighbourhood and OMG, it’s predominantly an Afro-Brazilian part of the city but it’s completely normal with shops, schools, etc. And by the way, if you freak out every time you’re on the same sidewalk as young Black man, you’re in the wrong city—and possibly the wrong world.

Barra is also completely fine, it’s always busy, don’t worry about the few comunidades here and there—Salvador is 60% normal housing, 40% “favela”, it’s just the way it is. I don’t step into comunidades because I don’t know my way around and I’d be out of place but it’s always good to remember that residents would also love to have better housing and higher revenues.

My latest exploration took me to the Museum of Modern Art. I wasn’t sure how good the neighbourhood was and since it’s located in the lower town—bad reputation—I took a 99. Once there, I realized it was only a twenty-minute walk back to the Elevator Lacerda, and it was okay as long as you stick to the sidewalk along the port.

The museum itself is quite unique. It’s housed in Solar do Unhão, a 16^th-century historical site, and it’s right on the seashore of the Bay of All Saints. This is probably the only museum with a beach!

One exhibition focused on popular art from the Nordeste with a collection from architect Lina Do Bardi, who designed the MASP in São Paulo. The other showcased several generations of Brazilian female artists.

I came back to the museum today with my camera for a second look… eh, the museum is free!