Belo Horizonte is this year’s Vitoriamoment—an unlikely detour to a city few gringos bother to explore, a deep dive into a corner of Brazil that left me slightly puzzled.
I had very little info about Belo Horizonte. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly—probably a big, cosmopolitan city, a bit like a mini version of São Paulo. I was picturing myself wandering around, stumbling upon all the must-see attractions effortlessly, soaking up the atmosphere, and eating delicious Minas cheese.
I was way off.
Forget about the “wandering around” part. Belo Horizonte is a planned city full of maddening diagonals, steep streets and annoying red lights. I was glued to my phone for Google Maps tips for the first three days, watching the blue dot jumping around from street to street. I eventually learned to navigate my neighbourhood but getting around was never instinctive or fun.
Stumbling upon the must-see attractions? Ah, ah. Maybe if I had gotten really lost and somehow decided to walk six kilometres to the northwest (“Oh, wow, an artificial lake!”) or three kilometres uphill to the southeast (“Awesome, a viewpoint!”). All the top spots are scattered around and far from the downtown core. The exceptions were Praça da Libertade, conveniently located a couple of blocks (uphill, of course) from my Airbnb, and the central market (actually central).
And for soaking up the atmosphere, I got soaked alright but by the rain. And there wasn’t much of an atmosphere. In a way, Belo Horizonte reminded me of Ottawa—spread out, empty streets, not super walkable.
Sounds frustrating? It was, especially because I knew that Belo Horizonte had something to offer. I just wasn’t doing “Bea-gá” right.
Time to readjust expectations.
In the end, my luck turned for the better.
It stopped raining. A blog reader living in Belo Horizonte emailed me and we teamed up for three days. And eventually, I began to see “Bea-gá” with new eyes.
Belo Horizonte was different and that alone made it interesting to me, so zero regrets about this detour.
Curious about “Bea-gá”? This is what I enjoyed in Belo Horizonte.
Not only the market is actually downtown and almost a straight walk from Praça da Libertade but it’s also a great place to wander around, taste local specialties (cheese, cachaça and sweets) and wonder about the live animals section.
It was dead quiet early in the week but packed on Friday and Saturday.
Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte, Av. Augusto de Lima, 744 – Centro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30190-922
Praça da Libertade
This is not just your typical square—it’s a work of art, a gathering place (random brass bands and entertainers show up when it’s sunny) and the starting point of the Circuito Culturalwith 13 institutions, including museums and cultural centres, around or close to the square.
Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Praça da Liberdade, – Savassi, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010
It stays open until 9 p.m. so it’s a perfect late-night activity.
Casa Fiat de Cultura, Praça da Liberdade, 10 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Casa Fiat de Cultura, Praça da Liberdade, 10 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Casa Fiat de Cultura, Praça da Liberdade, 10 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Casa Fiat de Cultura, Praça da Liberdade, 10 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Casa Fiat de Cultura, Praça da Liberdade, 10 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
This cultural centre features art exhibitions and much more. There’s a lovely coffee shop in the courtyard.
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, Praça da Liberdade, 450 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, Praça da Liberdade, 450 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, Praça da Liberdade, 450 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010
MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal
I must admit I probably wouldn’t have stepped into the Museum of Mines and Metal if it hadn’t started raining again but I didn’t regret it. Again, free admission, a stunning building and great exhibitions—the state of Minas Gerais has huge reserves of iron and sizable reserves of gold and gemstones, so Belo Horizonte was the right place for some rock science.
MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal, Praça da Liberdade, 680 – Funcionários, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30140-010
Memorial Minas Gerais Vale
The Memorial Minas Gerais Vale focuses on the mining history and culture of the state of Minas Gerais. Again, free admission, late-night visits, impressive building and great exhibitions.
Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060Praça Governador Israel Pinheiro (Praça do Papa), Av. Agulhas Negras, s/n – Mangabeiras, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30210-060
The Mineirão
I’m not really into football (sorry, Feng, sorry, Mark) but walking around one of the biggest stadiums in the world (one of the venues for the 2014 FIFA World Cup, and the football tournament of the 2016 Summer Olympics) is interesting and it offers good views of Belo Horizonte. Plus, it’s free.
Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000Mineirão, Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram, 1001 – São José, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31275-000
Lagoa da Pampulha
This is the spot everybody recommends in Belo Horizonte but be warned, it’s far. However, it’s worth the Uber ride because this is where you’ll find the lovely Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis designed by Oscar Niemeyer. The curvy church was not consecrated until 1959 because, well, it doesn’t exactly look like a church.
Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Santuário Arquidiocesano São Francisco de Assis, Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima, 3000 – Pampulha, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450Lagoa da Pampulha, Av. Otacílio Negrão de Lima, s/n – São Luiz, Belo Horizonte – MG, 31365-450
The food
Honestly, food is pretty good everywhere in Brazil. Still awesome local pão de queijo and empadas (mini pot pies)!
Empadas, Av. Afonso Pena – Cruzeiro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30130-009Empadas, Av. Afonso Pena – Cruzeiro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30130-009Empadas, Av. Afonso Pena – Cruzeiro, Belo Horizonte – MG, 30130-009Pão de queijoA twist on the Pão de queijoPão de queijoEmpadas at the Mercado Central de Belo HorizonteEmpadas at the Mercado Central de Belo HorizonteEmpadas at the Mercado Central de Belo Horizonte
Nombre impressionnant de photos ! Magnifique ! Les gâteaux semblent les mêmes qu’au Portugal (les tartelettes)