The first time I broke curfew—basically the day I landed in France—I made a mental note to take my camera with me the next day to document the strange atmosphere I was discovering in Nantes.

Both curfew and empty streets were somewhat new to me. I wasn’t in France during the spring 2020 stay-at-home order and everything was more or less back to normal—if only for a few weeks between the first and second wave—when Mark and I travelled to France in August 2020. In Canada, the most immediate and noticeable impact of the first lockdown was seeing big-box store parking lots completely empty, a very unusual thing on this side of the Atlantic where shopping is a popular winter pastime and where retailers almost open 24/7.

It’s cultural. Different places, different expectations. Day or night, I’m used to quiet streets in the suburbia, of Ottawa, where few people walk to get places and sidewalks are optional. On the other hand, Nantes would probably be described as “crowded” by Canadians—population density is higher and streets are full of people walking to work or to school, or maybe shopping, eating, drinking or just hanging out. Tramways and buses spit out passengers at regular intervals, terraces spill out into the street and going out for dinner around 9 pm or 10 pm isn’t unusual nor is sharing loudly what you think about the world after way too many drinks (the neighbourhood will tell you to shut up, though). Unlike in Canada, life isn’t usually lived at home between the finished basement and the backyard—activities take place in public space, whether it’s a city park, a bus stop, a century-old landmark or just city streets.

Of course, bars and restaurants have been closed since fall so streets look unusually wide without tables and chairs encroaching onto sidewalks. They also feel unusually quiet without French sitting around and doing what they do best—eating, drinking and smoking cigarettes, complaining about the world and going home quite happy after a social gathering.

Delivery drivers were adding to the post-apocalyptic vibe. Streets were empty but for dozens of fast-moving robot-like Uber Eats or Deliveroo slaves. With their motorbike helmet, square insulated bags and phones glued to their hand, they looked like they had been air-dropped from some futuristic world.

All around me, meals were being delivered on foot or by bike, scooter or motorbike. There were small gatherings around popular options—McDonald’s, a sushi shop, Subway and a convenience store known for a seemingly endless booze supply. Every few minutes, I was bumping into lone drivers desperately looking for the right building door, their phone screen glowing in the dark, or witnessing a quick exchange between a hungry customer and the underpaid soul bringing pizza or local crêpes.

This is as close as it gets to sci-fi but it’s a lot less fun than seven-year-old me reading 21st-century themed cartoons imagined…

After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Rue Gaston Veil, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Rue Gaston Veil, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Parvis des Nefs, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Parvis des Nefs, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Parvis des Nefs, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Parvis des Nefs, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Mail des Chantiers, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Mail des Chantiers, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai Président Wilson, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai Président Wilson, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont des trois continents, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont des trois continents, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Boulevard Gustave Roch, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Boulevard Gustave Roch, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Loire River, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Loire River, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Loire River, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Loire River, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Esplanade des Traceurs de Coques, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Quai des Antilles, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Vincent Gâche, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Vincent Gâche, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Pont Anne de Bretagne, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Vincent Gâche, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, Vincent Gâche, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Sainte-Catherine, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Sainte-Catherine, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue d'Orléans, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue d’Orléans, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue d'Orléeans, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue d’Orléeans, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue de la Fosse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue de la Fosse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Racine, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Racine, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Gréfry, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, rue Gréfry, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes
After the 7 p.m. curfew, place de la Bourse, Nantes

Get the latest story, cultural shock and travel pictures right in your inbox

I don't spam, promise.

I literally don't have the time to write ten stories a day.

Visited 43 times, 1 visit(s) today

12 Comments

  1. Martin Penwald April 12, 2021 at 2:23 pm

    > it’s a lot less fun than seven-year-old me reading 21st-century themed cartoons imagined…

    Not enough zombies.

    Reply
    1. Zhu April 12, 2021 at 9:23 pm

      Zombies = food delivery drivers. Seriously, they look like zombies, staring at their phone, looking for addresses.

      Reply
      1. Martin Penwald April 13, 2021 at 12:46 pm

        Tiens, la France suspend tout vol en provenance du Brésil.
        La situation là-bas inquiète l’OMS, j’ai même entendu que le Brésil, à cause de la gestion irresponsable de la pandémie par Bolsofacho, représente une menace mondiale.

        Reply
        1. Zhu April 14, 2021 at 7:49 pm

          J’ai vu ça, je crois que je suis partie au bon moment. Il apparaît que les vols ne sont suspendus que pour quelques jours… pis je ne crois pas en la suspension des vols, on est testé quand même, c’est pas du gros n’importe quoi comme le laissent entendre certains. Je suis aussi assez partagée sur ce que les médias disent du Brésil. Je n’irais jamais mettre en doute la parole des soignants de là-bas, par contre il y a beaucoup d’inexactitudes sur la gestion de la crise. Il est faux de dire que le Brésil ne fait rien à cause de Bolso. Certes, c’est un gros con, mais ça fait longtemps que les gouverneurs décrètent des mesures et ils en ont (heureusement) le pouvoir. De plus, même si Bolso se réveillait soudain un matin en disant aux Brésiliens de rester à la maison, ça ferait que dalle. C’est la seule mesure jamais prise au Brésil (couvre-feux, fermetures, hygiène, masque, tout est fait) et je doute qu’elle marche dans un pays où le logement est un problème, où les gens “vivent” dehors (plage, etc.) et où sans travailler ils crèvent de faim.

          Reply
          1. Martin Penwald April 14, 2021 at 9:59 pm

            Oui, en effet, heureusement que les gouverneurs et autres élues locales ont fait quelque chose, mais l’autre andouille n’a pas aidé.
            Pis ‘faut bien reconnaître que les gouvernements provinciaux au Canada n’ont pas été très très efficaces. Ya qu’à voir l’Alberta de Jasshole Kenney.

          2. Zhu April 18, 2021 at 7:45 pm

            J’ai vu que l’Alberta avait été le mauvaise élève de la semaine niveau COVID, mais maintenant c’est l’Ontario… Des choses ont changé pour toi à la frontière ou tu passes toujours facilement?

          3. Martin Penwald April 18, 2021 at 8:50 pm

            La frontière ? C’est quoi, ça ?
            Aaaah, ouais, le truc où ya des gens coincés dans des guérites qui te demandent où t’habites et si t’as des sous ou des flingues sur toi.
            Tiens, aujourd’hui, entre le moment où je me suis arrêté avant la guérite et le moment où je suis reparti, il s’est écoulé 9 minutes. Si ça a été si long, c’est parce qu’il y avait 3 camions devant moi.

          4. Zhu April 18, 2021 at 8:57 pm

            C’était où sur la ligne de démarcation entre le merveilleux monde de Mickey et le grand nord? Je croyais que vous deviez vous faire tester?

          5. Martin Penwald April 18, 2021 at 9:18 pm

            Ben non. On en a parlé il y a quelques mois, mais finalement on est dispensé. J’ai traversé à Coutts.

          6. Zhu April 19, 2021 at 6:00 pm

            Tant mieux pour toi, ça te facilite la vie!

  2. Melanie April 15, 2021 at 11:04 am

    Beautifully written! Bravo!

    Reply
    1. Zhu April 18, 2021 at 7:46 pm

      Merci very much 😉

      Reply

Leave A Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *