Cabo Frio looked like a very nice, normal place, the day I arrived. I actually walked from the bus station to my Airbnb, something I wouldn’t even have considered in Rio de Janeiro, and not just because the rodoviária is far. Same state, different vibe.

I checked in at the Airbnb, basically typing the code to open the front door and using the four digits provided to open the box and retrieve the key to my room. The place was new and spotless. Small, for sure, but very functional, and shared areas looked clean.

I went to buy groceries—well-stocked supermarkets and regular prices.

I checked out the main beaches just down the street, Praia do Forte and Praia das Dunas—endless and gorgeous.

I was pretty enthusiastic when Feng called me later that night. “I love it,” I confessed. “It has everything… good pick.”

I didn’t know anything about Cabo Frio and I can’t even remember how we chose it as a potential destination. I think the rationale was that Rio de Janeiro isn’t too far, so if I hated it, I would have a plan B. Mind you, Cabo Frio isn’t exactly a hidden gem, it’s a popular holiday spot in Brazil. The Wikipedia page made me laugh when I was doing research: “This city features beaches with white fine sand, since it doesn’t have mica the sand doesn’t get hot and you can walk on it with bare feet without getting burnt.”

“So, is the water actually cold? How about the sand?”

“The water is fine, not that cold. And they’re right about the sand, it stays cool even though it’s 30⁰C!”

As usual, I wasted time worrying about a million things that turned out okay. I had read Cabo Frio was restricting the number of buses because it gets really packed—I got there just fine. I was worrying about sharing a place with perfect strangers, but I have plenty of hostel experience and Brazilians are easygoing and super respectful. I was afraid that Cabo Frio would be a more expensive version of Rio de Janeiro but prices are normal.

I finally relaxed and decided to explore the city the following day.

Cabo Frio looks small on the map but it feels big because every neighbourhood has a very different vibe. I walked through Passagem with colourful houses that reminded me of Paraty, I crossed the lagoon to check out the fish market, I climbed to the top of the Morro da Guia, Forte de São Mateus and plenty of sand dunes, I went for a swim at Praia do Forte and I hung out at Praça das Águas and Praça da Cidadania where everybody gathers at night.

“Yep, I love it,” I told Feng that night.

He laughed. “Enjoy! Are you ready for what’s coming?”

“I don’t know what’s coming… it could go either way. But yeah, I am. I have food, drinks, clean clothes and energy.”

To be continued…