It would be an understatement to say that few tourists venture in Espírito Santo. I had a hard time finding information on Vitória, the state capital, and on Vila Velha, the twin city just across the bridge. I stumbled upon the blog of two Brazilian sisters, Mariza and Karina, who wrote several travel articles on Vila Velha—they were very helpful and I liked their “no BS” style. I also found a report from Kevin, an American traveller who spent a couple of weeks in Vitória. And… that’s about it.

So maybe I should start by saying that there’s absolutely nothing wrong with Espírito Santo. It’s a “forgotten state” because tourists tend to head to Rio de Janeiro or Salvador, but it’s a really nice place to explore if you get the chance.

On the plus side, you’ll get to enjoy a normal Brazilian city without the glitter and hype associated with tourist spots but with all the conveniences, like supermarkets and all. Locals are very friendly and proud of their city—and rightly so, because there are things to do in both Vila Velha and Vitória. Best of all, most attractions are free or very affordable.

On the downside, you’re on your own. Don’t expect organized activities, easy transportation, tour operators, etc. The two cities are pretty quiet—just regular people going about their lives. No one is going to show you the way (unless you’re literally lost, people are still helpful!) Oh, and don’t expect a beautiful blue sky. It’s very hot (25⁰C-30⁰C) but often cloudy and rainy.

I stayed in Vila Velha and I don’t regret it. I find it more lively than Vitória, and the beach is nicer too.

So let’s start with the top attraction—the beach.

Praia da Costa

The main beaches from north to south are Praia da Sereia (very small but packed on weekends), then five-kilometre-long Praia da Costa, followed by Praia de Itapoã, Praia de Coqueiral and Praia de Itaparica—the last three are just one endless beach.

There are also tons of “hidden” beaches along the coast, some cleaner and safer than others. Ask a local!

Praia da Costa is probably the busiest beach with many people playing sports on the sand in the evening—anything from beach tennis to football. However, very few people actually go for a dip. Currents can pull you under and waves are very strong. It’s a very different beach atmosphere compared to Florianópolis or the Nordeste, with a strong fishing culture.

Talking about fishing, don’t miss the Praia dos Pescadores, not an actual beach but the spot right between Praia da Costa and Praia de Itapoã. You’ll see dozens of fishing boats—they can also take you to the islands, more on that later—and fishermen cleaning mussels, cooking fish or selling crabs right on the beach.

Praia da Costa is a lovely place for a stroll, a good spot to enjoy the sunshine, and where to go if you want to see people because it’s a bit of a gathering point, especially close to Praia da Sereia. It’s also pretty safe even after sunset. Praia de Itaparica is more deserted and I never felt truly comfortable there, except on weekends when it’s busy.

Morro do Moreno

Absolutely everyone in Vila Velha advised me to climb the “Morro do Moreno” for the best view ever. I looked it up—it’s a hill close to the bridge, but I wasn’t sure how safe the hike was. At least, I knew the Covento da Penha was busy on Sundays, and it’s more touristic. Hiking to the top of a hill alone didn’t feel like a great idea and a few local women told me they wouldn’t do it.

Eventually, my second Airbnb host offered to go with me the day I checked in. I jumped on the opportunity—not only he knew where we were going but I felt safer going with someone.

Honestly, I would have turned around long before reaching the entrance of the hill—empty streets, a long walk under the Terceira Ponte bridge… these are basically the kind of places your mum told you to avoid, especially alone, especially as a woman.

Then there was the climb. It’s a steep, steep paved road at first, then a “trail” which is basically a few wooden stacks more or less secured to large boulders—I’d call it “rock climbing.”

We aimed for the “first rock,” not the top of the hill because it was already pretty late.

The view is absolutely amazing and I’m glad I went but whoever you are, don’t go alone unless you know what you’re doing. It’s tough physically, kind of dangerous and very deserted.

My Airbnb host took me along the coast on the way down, another great spot but again, deserted and you have to know where you’re going.

But wait, there’s more! Tomorrow I’ll take you to an island and a chocolate factory…