I reached a new level of Brazilianness in Fortaleza—asar frozen pão de queijo in a goddamn air fryer —I finally found a foolproof use for it.

Indirectly, Fortaleza taught me that.

And many other things.

I wasn’t in love with Fortaleza in 2023, but I think now I am.

I (re)discovered the city during Carnival 2026, of all times. It’s not a carnival high, by the way—Carnival was just an excuse to roam around. And guess what: the city is about ten times bigger than I’d imagined. I barely saw any of it in 2023.

I’m not sure what I expected back then, but I remember thinking the city wasn’t what I had pictured. This time, I started from scratch and just embraced it.

It worked.

And maybe Fortaleza changed a bit too, for the better.

Before Carnival started, I had time to go downtown and check out a few landmarks. I still don’t recommend the Mercado Central unless you’re a huge fan of cashew nuts and cachaça, because that’s mostly what they sell. The cathedral next door is more interesting.

I did discover the awesome Estação das Artes a few blocks away. This huge complex is in the former train station and houses the Pinacoteca do Ceará, a food market, a design center, and the train museum. Generally speaking, I found the downtown core interesting, with lovely buildings—yes, many of them crumbling. And the centro isn’t the safest place, but it’s a work in progress, and it’s going in the right direction.

If you’re not scared to walk, though, the Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar along the way is also worth a visit—picturesque inside and out, with tons of exhibitions.

My other two favourite places in Fortaleza were by the shore.

First, the fish market—not your typically boring fish market, but a few lively rows of stalls on the sidewalk, with some of the friendliest fishermen around. You can bring your octopus, lobster, or fish home, or have it cooked there at the stalls next to the market. Smart.

Yes, I cooked fish often in Fortaleza.

By the way, if you don’t feel like cooking, your best option is Varjota, the new (?) food district with bars and restaurants. It’s quite lively at night.

My second favourite place is the long Espigão do Náutico, one of Fortaleza’s many piers, where everybody comes at sunset to take photos and socialize. You can easily spend an hour on the pier—longer if you find friends (you will).

I like how walkable Fortaleza is, especially the kilometre-long pedestrian avenue along the shore.

I like how the city is changing, with new projects and construction.

I think I’ll go back and check it out again.

Plus, the people are quite awesome.

Fortaleza felt a bit empty and lonely in 2023 but now, it feels cozy to me.