My Foz do Iguaçu Airbnb came with almost no bugs, which is quite a feat for a place in the jungle.

Based on this alone, I decided I’d be lucky in Foz this year. The sun was shining, my air con was working, and I had energy. I just had to figure out what to do or rather how to do it—and it wasn’t the usual reason people come to Foz do Iguaçu.

Even by Brazilian standards, Foz do Iguaçu is a bit weird. It would be just a dot on the map in the state of Paraná, at the border with Argentina and Paraguay, if not for its iconic waterfalls—one of the seven wonders of nature and the largest waterfall system on Earth.

The Brazilian side offers the best panoramic views. The Argentinian side is an immersive walk in the jungle. Paraguay didn’t get anything, but Brazilians still cross for cheap electronics.

Puerto Iguazú on the Argentinian side is chaotic but popular, with a hippy vibe. Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil feels more like a city—a quiet city. Picture a giant square bordered by four main roads. Avenida Paraná, Avenida República Argentina (nope, you’re still in Brazil, just a nod to the neighbours) covers two sides, and Av. Juscelino Kubitschek covers the other. That’s mostly it, with a grid of uphill and downhill streets inside, plus sprawling suburbs and a commercial microcentro near the bridge to Paraguay.

There isn’t much to do in Foz proper. The pedestrian Avenida Brasil gets a little busy in the evening. The mall is always packed, mostly because of the air con.

The city empties out during the day since most travelers head to the waterfalls, cross to Argentina, or stop at attractions along the road to the falls, like the aquarium.

Most travelers don’t linger in Foz either. It’s a two- or three-day stop, not a destination. It’s not about Brazil. It’s about a world wonder, period. A box to tick before heading to Peru, Argentina, or back home.

I actually kind of enjoy hanging out in Foz do Iguaçu. Sure, the city is quiet, but I never get tired of the jungle vibe—the red dirt, the wild trees, and the many birds. And it’s cool being able to hop over to Argentina and Paraguay so easily, just next door. You just have to be patient because buses run whenever and crossing the border is never straightforward.

And this is going to be my new challenge—crossing to Paraguay.

Yep. I’m going to Paraguay. Yep, first time, not counting my brief venture into Ciudad del Este just across the bridge. Yep. I have no idea what to expect.

So this is why I’m in Foz. I’m planning my border-crossing adventure.

But of course, I still went to see the falls on the Brazilian side. Last year I got hopelessly soaked during a rainy day. This year the weather was gorgeous, but it was much busier.

I also returned to the amazing Parque das Aves, this bird sanctuary I discovered last year.

I had many cups of coffee at my favorite confeiteria, wondering how I could cross the damn Ponte da Amizade, get to Ciudad del Este, and catch the bus to Asunción, Paraguay. It sounds easy, but it’s not. The bridge is long and chaotic, Brazilian Ubers don’t cross it, and I’m alone with my backpack.

Fun times.

I think I found a way.