You can see Recife’s skyline from Olinda but you won’t spot the tiny town until an Uber or the bus drops you off at Praça do Carmo.

And even then, you will have to climb a few steep streets to find the most stunning viewpoint ever, the Alto da Sé.

Breathe, enjoy and grab some coconut water because by then, you’re probably drenched in sweat.

Olinda is twenty kilometres, a few centuries and a world away from Boa Viagem. Founded in 1535 by the Portuguese on hills overlooking, the town’s history is linked to the sugar-cane industry. Today, it’s a fascinating mix of old, colourful houses, convents and about twenty baroque churches. It’s mostly sleepy except around Carnaval because Olinda is known to throw a hell of a party—one of the largest in Brazil, actually.

I never know what church, convent or monetary will be open to visit. They tend to have weird hours or just close for years because, dear Portuguese settlers, high humidity and sea salt are a recipe for disaster with old buildings.

This time, I was the only soul wandering around the amazing Convento de São Francisco. It felt like stepping into yet another world, especially because it’s not a museum but a place of active worship.

I spent my Friday and Saturday exploring the town from bottom to top and top to bottom. The weather was gorgeous—not, I’m not taunting you, Canada!—, making the colours even more vivid.