Every day, Salvador goes dark at 5:30 p.m. This is not a Brazilian mystery—or maybe it was when I first ventured into the Nordeste—but I solved this one fast enough—it’s called sunset.

Yes, it’s early. It’s not a big deal, though. It’s not like the temperature drops dramatically or beach bums pack up and go home—life just goes on.

But first, it pauses for half an hour because in Salvador, just like in many other places in Brazil with a front-row seat, the pôr do sol is a show worth showing up for. I’m not kidding, you can always expect a crowd, often music, most likely beer, booze, and snack vendors.

Sunset chasing is a local pastime, and you’re spoiled with options around the Bay of All Saints. So this week, I took my mum to my three favourite Salvador sunset spots.

They all delivered magic.

Barra’s iconic lighthouse

The Farol is Barra’s neighbourhood postcard picture. Around 5 p.m., it’s a major gathering point. People pack onto the steep slopes, some climbing the rocks—in Havaianas, of course—directly from the beach below, the rest coming from the street or even by boat.

And this is where, right behind the Farol, the day’s grand finale takes place.

Expect plenty of selfie addicts, caipirinhas drinkers, some grilled queijo coalho to snack on, and a round of applause when the sun finally sets behind the clouds or over the clear horizon.

Don’t miss the encore, with the sky turning bright red—or whatever colour it chooses to wear—along Praia do Porto da Barra. Go ahead, grab a coffee, and walk slowly along the shore, you’re right where you should be.

The Museum of Modern Art’s secret beach

Salvador’s “MAM”—Museu de Arte Moderna—is just unreal. Not only is it by the water, but it comes with its own private beach, the Praia do MAM.

To access it, go around the museum, climb up the favela next door, then down to the beach, and ask a “marine Uber” to take you across—it costs 10 reais and takes about five minutes.

One review on Tripadvisor says, “A place without grace, to get there you have to take a boat ride, no life jacket, with inexperienced boys.”

Yes, and?

The Praia do MAM has the best sunsets, period. And to leave… well, wait for a boat to show up or just sneak in through the museum if it’s still open (until 6 p.m. only).

The Elevador Lacerda

Not only are the views over the Lower Town, “Cidade Baixa,” gorgeous during the day, but Praça Tomé de Souza also offers a great sunset experience. The nearby Praça da Sé, two minutes away, is also a great spot.

This is where you can see the Lower Town remaining stubbornly dark, silhouettes flickering through abandoned buildings—Cidade Baixa is best avoided after dark, it’s dodgy.

Well, if you’re around in Salvador, you know where to find me.

Not in Lower Town, mind you. But just look for someone with yet another two-reais cup of coffee in hand, and come watch the show with me.