I was actually happy to go back to Curitiba after Blumenau. I may not fully understand Curitiba, but at least it has museums featuring something other than beer and German settlers.

My dilemma was the bus. I had booked the 10:50 a.m. one, scheduled to arrive at 4:20 p.m., which sounded perfectly reasonable—if it ran on time. Except on the way to Blumenau, it had been late. Very late. And arriving late on a Sunday in Curitiba means everything is closed.

I considered taking the 6:45 a.m. bus instead, but I couldn’t change my ticket, so I decided to chance it.

The bus was “only” 90 minutes late. Phew.

I arrived in Curitiba with a headache—probably because I’d been freezing on the bus with the air conditioning blasting, and because my seatmate was a moody older lady on her way to visit her daughter, much to her annoyance, since she clearly preferred her son (!!).

I rushed to the supermarket and settled back into life in Curitiba, this time in another Airbnb with decent lighting, just a few blocks from the Cathedral.

With some recent Curitiba experience under my belt, nothing fazed me anymore, and I actually started to enjoy the city. Of course, everything was closed on Sunday and all the attractions were closed on Monday.

But on Tuesday, I went straight to the amazing Museu Oscar Niemeyer, because that’s where you go in Curitiba. You can’t miss it once you find the right neighbourhood—it looks like a giant yellow eye.

After that, I explored the small but lovely Museu da Imagem e do Som do Paraná, which felt like stepping into my late papi’s workshop.

Around 5 p.m., I had far too many cups of coffee, because that’s what you do in Curitiba. You grab one at a banca, sit around, and watch the rest of the world rush by.

I lined up at the bakery where everyone queues because the bread and pastries are cheap and delicious.

I chatted with perfect strangers, wandered down streets I’d never taken before, and just dove in.

And I actually enjoyed Curitiba, even under the occasional downpour.

So it’s not a love story—but Curitiba and I might just become good friends.