It was the end of a long shift for my Uber driver, but São Paulo was just waking up at 7:30 a.m. and the streets were mostly empty, except for homeless people still deep asleep under tents or right on the sidewalk.

It’s a long ride from GRU, the international airport—in fact, it’s located in a completely different city, Guarulhos (took me a few years to master the pronunciation, it’s for advanced speakers only…)—to pretty much anywhere in São Paulo proper.

Highways, highways, more highways. São Paulo is huge. I don’t even know where it starts and where it ends. There’s a historic centre and it is historic but I can’t guarantee it’s actually the centre because everywhere looks like it could be a centre with tons of businesses, tall buildings, and large avenues. It’s just one district after the next, some of them looking strangely familiar, but it’s only because every neighbourhood has a big mall, towers, major intersections…

… oh, wait, I actually know this place! This is where my last Airbnb was last year!

This year’s Airbnb was on the other side of Paulista, the famous avenue.

I dropped off my backpack, washed my face and tried to write a to-do list. I had some work to do to reconnect with Brazil. I had to withdraw money, reactivate my phone plan, get some groceries… and I had a haircut scheduled for later in the evening.

An ambitious program considering I was in Mexico the day before, in Colombia for part of the night, and I had slept maybe four hours in the plane.

Whatever, I had a lot of energy. I felt completely awake, very much alive.

And so I got coffee, cash, a data-and-call deal at Vivo, more coffee, some delicious chicken at the comida por kilo (for dinner, eventually!), basic groceries, another coffee, a brownie, a few smiles from strangers who enjoyed my exotic Portuguese.

Once the chores were completed, I decided to head to Centro. It was my only chance since it was Friday and the downtown core is best avoided on weekends when it’s completely empty.

I walked through Libertade, aka Little Tokyo, then I stopped at the Catedral da Sé before wandering around the busy commercial streets all the way to the Mercado Central.

It’s a long, long walk, by the way, one of the few I can do without checking a map because I know my way around these neighbourhoods… and it’s only maybe 1% of the entire city.

I bought a Red Hot Chili Pepper tee shirt then I walked back to Paulista through Consolação.

I’m so happy to be here.

I feel alive.

And kind of tired too, but the good kind of tired.

Avenida da Libertade, Liberdade, São Paulo
Avenida da Libertade, Liberdade, São Paulo
Praça da Libertade, Liberdade, São Paulo
Praça da Libertade, Liberdade, São Paulo
Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
Catedral Metropolitana de São Paulo, Praça da Sé, Sé, São Paulo
R. Quinze de Novembro, Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
R. Quinze de Novembro, Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Edifício da Bolsa De Valores De São Paulo, R. João Brícola, 37 - Se, São Paulo
Edifício da Bolsa De Valores De São Paulo, R. João Brícola, 37 – Se, São Paulo
Edifício da Bolsa De Valores De São Paulo, R. João Brícola, 37 - Se, São Paulo
Edifício da Bolsa De Valores De São Paulo, R. João Brícola, 37 – Se, São Paulo
Ladeira Porto Geral, Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Ladeira Porto Geral, Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, R. da Cantareira, 306 – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Viaduto do Chá - Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Viaduto do Chá – Centro Histórico de São Paulo, São Paulo
Theatro Municipal de São Paulo, Praça Ramos de Azevedo, s/n - República, São Paulo
Theatro Municipal de São Paulo, Praça Ramos de Azevedo, s/n – República, São Paulo
Theatro Municipal de São Paulo, Praça Ramos de Azevedo, s/n - República, São Paulo
Theatro Municipal de São Paulo, Praça Ramos de Azevedo, s/n – República, São Paulo
R. Sete de Abril, República, São Paulo
R. Sete de Abril, República, São Paulo
R. Sete de Abril, República, São Paulo
R. Sete de Abril, República, São Paulo
R. Augusta, Consolação, São Paulo
R. Augusta, Consolação, São Paulo

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8 Comments

  1. Lexie January 17, 2023 at 6:30 am

    Love this article, you’re giving me lots of energy too 😉 what do you say that the Centro has to be avoided on week ends bc it’s empty ? And why is it empty on weekends ?

    Reply
    1. Zhu January 17, 2023 at 10:05 pm

      Most historic centres are very busy on weekdays with tons of small businesses, but they also tend to close on weekends. Kind of like in Canada, business districts (used to?) go by the 9-5 work week. And it’s not advisable (nor enjoyable) to wander around empty streets 😉 Definitely not in Rio de Janeiro. Not sure for Sao Paulo…

      Reply
  2. I Say Oui January 18, 2023 at 9:11 am

    The tall palm trees are impressive! It’s interesting seeing the market scenes. Definitely would like some of those fruits.

    Reply
    1. Zhu January 19, 2023 at 12:54 am

      Brazilian fruits are pretty awesome if you love fruits–not my case, but Feng does and he samples a bit of everything. Yes, I know, I’m weird with fruits… not a big fan.

      Reply
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