São Paulo-Toronto-Ottawa – Pandemic Travel, Improved

My last Paulista moment was the insane rush-hour traffic all the way to the international airport in Guarulhos. I had the feeling a “city” of 45 million people could get jammed up, so I left at 4:45 p.m. for my 9 p.m. flight.

“When does rush hour end?” I asked my Uber driver.

“8 p.m. or so… and it starts at 4 p.m.”

Okay, so there’s no escaping it.

I did make it on time, arriving at 6:30 p.m. and I went straight to the Air Canada counter.

A few days before the flight, I received an email from Air Canada stating my “health document had been approved,” namely my proof of vaccination. I hadn’t uploaded anything, I guess Air Canada had it on file.

I didn’t have to show my proof of vaccination either at the airport but I was asked for the ArriveCAN receipt. I already had my boarding passes thanks to online check in, so I just had to drop off my backpack and it didn’t take long.

I went for a walk in the airport. It was packed, but the COVID test centre was empty, and it made me laugh. It used to be the other way around, empty airport and packed COVID test centre.

I went through security and border control around 7:45 p.m. and I called Feng at the gate.

“Okay, mommy, I just wanted to tell you that when you’re going to arrive in Toronto, it’s going to be cold. Like, freezing cold.”

“I… don’t think so. I mean, it’s going to be cold but it’s April, it’s not like when you and daddy came back in January, won’t be as bad.”

“Oh, right… Oh, also, when you’re going to land in Toronto, people kind of yell at you for no reason and you will be forced to do a COVID again.”

“Actually, travel rules changed. I didn’t have to do a COVID test before leaving Brazil because I’m vaccinated and mandatory testing upon arrival measure was lifted last week. I may be tested but it’s random.”

“Humph. Well, if you get tested, it hurts. Just letting you know.”

Feng and Mark didn’t have a great experience when they flew back to Canada in January, they were basically treated like criminals.

“Okay, guys, I have to board. See you in Ottawa!”

AC91 was pretty full but there was an empty seat between the Brazilian guy heading to Vancouver on a study permit and me. The extra room was great—airplane seats feel uncomfortable and tight after taking these awesome Brazilian long-distance buses.

I didn’t get much sleep during the 10-hour flight because of pre-recorded announcements regularly reminding passengers to “keep face-covering on at all times” in four fucking languages (English, French, Portuguese and Spanish). It feels like Air Canada is getting more and more stingy with food—the usual piece of bread and pasta-or-chicken dinner was ridiculously small, I was glad I had brought my own food. I don’t expect a fancy on-board meal but it’s a long flight, especially considering you have to show up three hours before and that Toronto isn’t the final destination for many passengers. I mean, people do get hungry at one point!

We finally landed in Toronto at 6:15 a.m. The airport was empty and the atmosphere was grim.

Customs declaration kiosks have been upgraded since the last time I was in Pearson and they don’t fucking work. I wasn’t the only one having issues, most passengers were puzzled as well—frozen screen, unable to scan passports, etc.

On the other hand, border control was super quick and for the first time since 2020, there were no questions about quarantine plans, proof of vaccination, etc. I got a green PHAC (Public Health Agency of Canada) on my passport, which apparently meant no mandatory testing.

Good to go.

I exited the airport and waited for my 10 a.m. flight to Ottawa in the arrival hall.

Strangely enough, interactions were… needlessly adversarial. I just can’t explain it because Canadians are usually pretty friendly. Many passengers, including me, seemed to be confused by the constant reminders to “keep physical distancing” and “keep your mask on,” weird (empty) queue management systems, and just bossy employees. I guess travelling isn’t a normal thing to do around here yet. Welcome to Canada, eh.

Whatever. I landed in Ottawa as 11 a.m., as planned, and Mark and Feng were waiting for me.

“I have the feeling the world is going to get much better now that you’re back,” Mark stated without an ounce of irony.

No pressure, hey.

São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
Empty COVID testing centre, São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
Empty COVID testing centre, São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
Empty COVID testing centre, São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
Empty COVID testing centre, São Paulo/Guarulhos – Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport
AC91 to Toronto
AC91 to Toronto
Landing in Toronto
Landing in Toronto
Landing in Toronto
Landing in Toronto
No COVID test for me, Toronto Pearson International Airport
No COVID test for me, Toronto Pearson International Airport
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
When you get a medium coffee because you forgot "medium" means XXL in North America, Toronto Pearson International Airport
When you get a medium coffee because you forgot “medium” means XXL in North America, Toronto Pearson International Airport
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Toronto Pearson International Airport, 6:30 a.m.
Ottawa, April 8, Hail...
Ottawa, April 8, Hail…

♥ Curiosity makes for good stories.

Stories from the road and beyond.

Juliette

French by birth, Canadian by choice, nomadic by instinct. I travel, write, and get into just enough trouble to make good stories.

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