For everything that happened after Fuzuê and Furdanço, you will have to take my word for it or accept a few awful phone pics (send donations and I will upgrade from my 2018 refurbished Android I can no longer find cases for).
There are places where cameras, phones and, ahem, wallets don’t go.
But I did go with nothing but a lighter and a single cigarette stashed in my bra.
On Monday, after a weekend of pré-Carnival parties, Salvador rested quietly.
Just kidding. Xanddy Harmonia was offering the city “a melhor segunda-feira do mundo,” i.e., the best Monday in the world—this meant yet another sound truck and yet another parade on the Ondina-Barra circuit starting at 6 p.m.
I had a pretty normal Monday because, unlike many locals, I wasn’t busy boarding up businesses or rewiring street lights. At 6 p.m., I showed up in Ondina, where, sure enough, a giant sound truck was parked in the middle of the road. Xanddy Harmonia, I assumed.
But the truck wasn’t moving yet and most people seemed to be watching the sunset. I walked down Avenida Oceânica and to the mall, mostly because it has some air con. I must have spent an hour inside “Shopping Barra.” I took the parade street again—busy, tons of people wandering around, but no music or giant trucks.
I figured I had missed the event and that it was over. No big deal, I was tired anyway.
I kept on walking towards my Airnbn but strangely enough, everybody was going the opposite way. This is when I understood that the “best Monday in the world” was just starting, ah ah, who shows up at 6 p.m., really?
Since I couldn’t hear the music, the truck must be still uphill. I figured I had the time to go back, cook, maybe even take a shower—and this is exactly what I did.
I went out again to have the full pré-Carnival crowd experience, which is why I didn’t take anything with me. I would dive and follow the trios elétrico for a while. I had nothing to lose, literally.
Oh, my God. This time, I found Xanddy Harmonia and the sea of revellers easily. You just couldn’t miss the flood of people walking down to the lighthouse.
I joined them. It felt like catching a wave and riding it.
Imagine being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of people in a street that probably wasn’t designed for Carnival back in the day. You’re not just listening to the music, you’re expressing it, performing in a way. Standing still isn’t an option—the crowd only makes room for small groups of military police who somehow manage to get through in a single file.
I danced for about an hour, then I got out, somehow. Enough for me. Best Monday party ever, for sure.
On Tuesday, I wanted to escape Carnival, so I walked to the Pelourinho… where I bumped into a bloco and visited the Salvador Carnival Museum—okay, you just can’t escape from Carnival at this time of the year.
Then I watched a lovely sunset in Barra surrounded by people who were getting ready for yet another pré-Carnival event.
I skipped it; I had to pack.
I won’t spend Carnival in Salvador—I have to fly somewhere to meet someone. Yes, I have a date in Brazil!
The neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorThe neighbourhood of Barra between two parade, pré-Carnival 2025, SalvadorAfter the “Melhor Segunda-feira do Mundo” mosh pit, Barra, SalvadorAfter the “Melhor Segunda-feira do Mundo” mosh pit, Barra, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorBloco in the Pelourinho, pré-Carnival Tuesday, SalvadorCidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Cidade baixa from the roof of the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055Casa do Carnaval da Bahia, Praça Ramos de Queirós, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-055The boarding continues on Av. Sete de Setembro, Salvador – State of BahiaElevador Lacerda, Praça Tomé de Souza, S/N – Centro, Salvador – BA, 40020-000Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650