“First time in Paraguay?”

“Yep.”

“And what did you know about our country before coming to Asunción?”

“Not much,” I admitted.

“Be honest… you thought it was all dirt streets, slums, and drug lords?”

“… Yeah,” I admitted sheepishly.

The girls and I laughed—we were taking pictures in front of one of Asunción’s malls.

The first thing I learned about Paraguayans is that they are friendly and have a sense of humour.

Then I learned a bunch of other stuff.

1. Their Spanish is my kind of Spanish. None of this Argentinian and Uruguayan “ch” for every “ll” nonsense, phew. More seriously, I find people very easy to understand.
2. There aren’t many people on the streets. First, there aren’t that many people in Paraguay to begin with, plus it’s very hot and many locals are on holiday (ahem—in Brazil, by the ocean).
3. Despite the empty streets, it’s safe—really. I’m staying in a hip suburb (because I had to pick a spot and didn’t really know Asunción), but I’ve walked the five kilometers to the historic center a few times with no issue. I’ve even gone out around 1 a.m. to check out the live music scene and had the same feeling every time: it’s okay. Empty streets are not dangerous streets in Asunción.
4. Gathering matters, and so does sitting around in parks or wherever there’s live music—and there are quite a few opportunities to catch live bands for free.
5. Paraguayans are very, very nice and helpful. My Airbnb host is super friendly and keeps sending recommendations, and the woman working the night shift in my building is my new best friend—I picked up the food she ordered, she helps me add data to my phone plan, and then we drink tereré together.
6. Tereré is my new obsession. It’s a favourite around here—yerba mate, cold water, and pohã ñana (medicinal herbs) in a guampa, sipped with a bombilla (straw) that everyone shares.
7. Local food includes delicious empanadas (smaller than in Chile, less cheesy than in Argentina), chipas, and, of course, asado (grilled meat). I have my own electric grill, so I made an asado for one—delicious.
8. The supermarkets are Brazilian-style (clean, modern), not the Argentinian style (questionable refrigeration, no prices, etc.). The main chains around me are Supermercado Real and Superseis (S6).
9. My Canadian Visa card works to pay for just about anything, except online. All online payments are blocked—go figure. I go to the cambio for cash; there’s no point in withdrawing money, considering the fees are high and the limit is low.
10. I can’t really explain why, but Asunción makes me happy. It’s very, very relaxing, and it’s a treat to explore a new city, a new country, and a new culture. Or maybe it’s the tereré—who knows.