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How to Spend 36 Hours in Rio de Janeiro (When You Have To)

I have to spend another couple of days in Rio de Janeiro. There’s no way around it coming from Cabo Frio.

I know, no one is feeling sorry for me.

In fact, I may have enjoyed the short stopover if I could have found a decent place to stay. You need shelter, in Rio.

Location does matter. Copacabana and Ipanema are tourist spots and yes, you’ve probably heard there’s a beach or two around here. Mostly, you’re pretty much guaranteed easy access to supermarkets, restaurants, whatever you need, and streets are busy—busy means safe here.

Botafogo is okay as well. Never heard of it? It’s the neighbourhood from which you can see both the Christ the Redeemer statue and the Sugarloaf Mountain, unless blocked by buildings. Every single Airbnb in the neighbourhood includes stock pictures of both and none of the actual bedroom, kitchen, whatever.

Gloria and Catete can be okay if you’re on the main streets.

Then there’s Lapa, Santa Teresa and Centro. You can find lovely renovated apartments on Airbnb and plenty of people claim these neighbourhoods are totally fine now but if you stay here you have to know what you’re doing and where you’re going. It’s not advisable to just… wander around.

Most Rio de Janeiro apartments have the same issues. Apartments are tiny and stuffy, usually without balconies but with two or three locks because of safety. You will also have to deal with cockroaches, open twenty doors to get into the building—and buzz the moody 24/7 doorman every time—, play around with a giant and loud air con unit blowing dust and not cooling off anything, and pay a premium because it’s Rio after all.

Not that the rest of the country has much nicer, modern apartments, by the way.

This time, I had the choice between a cramped Airbnb in Botafogo where the bathroom and bedroom seemed to be already full of the owner’s stuff, a renovated apartment inconveniently located in a side street of Copacabana that you shouldn’t take after sunset, and a few overpriced options in Copacabana without many pictures, which is never a good sign on Airbnb. I sighed and paid too much for probably not much.

My story is very anecdotal, it just illustrates that accommodation options are scarce and often unaffordable in Rio, where many residents live poorly maintained apartments… when they’re not living in one of the many favelas or just sleep in the middle of the sidewalk.

I left Cabo Frio sleepy but relaxed. The mood changed when the bus pulled out in Rio’s terminal. On my right, a creepy dude badly parked in front of the entrance who claimed he was “working for Uber.” On my left, taxis trying to rip me off. “It’s 140 reais to Copa,” the driver claimed. “Prices are posted right behind you,” I replied. “It’s 50 reais.”

Welcome to Rio de Janeiro, the only place in Brazil where foreigners get ripped off.

“So, how is your Airbnb?”

“Typical Copacabana. The air con doesn’t work, the kitchen is basically a sink and two electrical burners that can’t work at the same time, it’s noisy, stuffy and old… oh, and don’t get me started on plug outlets, short circuits waiting to happen. But hey, I can see the beach from the window. Kind of. And at least, I really feel like a backpacker trying to find multiple hacks to make it work. Ever trying steaming carrots in a microwave?”

It is loud in there. I’m on the fifth floor, overlooking Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, dozens of cars and buses at full speed. Traffic eventually died down but then homeless folks on crack started to beat up the orange garbage cans and dance in the middle of the empty avenue. This is Rio for you.

What can you do in 36 hours in Rio de Janeiro? Don’t bother Google “one day in Rio, what to do.” I did. Itineraries are ridiculous—Ipanema in the morning, lunch in Copacabana, then up to the Sugarloaf Mountain, a walk through Centro, then sunset from Christ he Redeemer, a drink in Santa Teresa and a party somewhere in a trendy favela. Yeah, good luck. Maybe with a personal driver and everything pre-booked…

I was less ambitious and more practical. It was a very hot and stuffy day, First, I went grocery shopping, the bare minimum for two nights. Then I walked along Copacabana Beach Ipanema and I watched the sunset from the Arpoador, on the rock formation at the junction between Ipanema and Copacabana—this is where I met a Russian traveller and got interesting insights into what’s going on in Russia right now while the military police was flying just above us and armed forces started to search a bunch of guys just behind us.

I swear the rest of Brazil is cheaper, safer, more normal and relaxing. It’s just Rio.

I did pretty much the same the following day—Copacabana and a visit of the Fort (for six reais you get an awesome view of Copa), then Ipanema and a lovely sunset on the Arpoador.

I’m going to try to sleep, I’m supposed to wake up in four hours… and go somewhere fun, far from Rio.

Cabo Frio to Rio de Janeiro, Ponte Pres. Costa e Silva (Rio-Niterói) connecting between Rio and Niterói, one of the longest bridges in the world
Cabo Frio to Rio de Janeiro, Ponte Pres. Costa e Silva (Rio-Niterói) connecting between Rio and Niterói, one of the longest bridges in the world
Cabo Frio to Rio de Janeiro, Ponte Pres. Costa e Silva (Rio-Niterói) connecting between Rio and Niterói, one of the longest bridges in the world
Cabo Frio to Rio de Janeiro, Ponte Pres. Costa e Silva (Rio-Niterói) connecting between Rio and Niterói, one of the longest bridges in the world
Rodoviária do Rio, Av. Francisco Bicalho, 1 - Santo Cristo, Rio de Janeiro
Rodoviária do Rio, Av. Francisco Bicalho, 1 – Santo Cristo, Rio de Janeiro
Rodoviária do Rio, Av. Francisco Bicalho, 1 - Santo Cristo, Rio de Janeiro
Rodoviária do Rio, Av. Francisco Bicalho, 1 – Santo Cristo, Rio de Janeiro
Rodoviária to Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro
Rodoviária to Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Av. Atlântica,  Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Atlântica, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Av. Atlântica,  Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Atlântica, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Av. Atlântica,  Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Atlântica, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Av. Atlântica,  Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Atlântica, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Praia de Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Cel. Eugênio Franco, 1, Posto 6 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
General Osório, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro
General Osório, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro
Av. Vieira Souto, - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Vieira Souto, – Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Av. Vieira Souto, - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Vieira Souto, – Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - State of Rio de Janeiro
Praia do Arpoador, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – State of Rio de Janeiro
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
When you're trying to cook something edible with... not much
When you’re trying to cook something edible with… not much
When you're trying to cook something edible with... not much
When you’re trying to cook something edible with… not much
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro - RJ
Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 374 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ
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Zhu

French woman in English Canada.

Exploring the world with my camera since 1999, translating sentences for a living, writing stories that may or may not get attention.

Firm believer that nobody is normal... and it’s better this way.

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