Chinese people eat constantly. As soon as we are done with breakfast, my father-in-law’s family suggests we have lunch. And after we have lunch, why not have a snack? Then it’s time to go for dinner.

It drives me crazy because eating with the family is such a complicated affair. We can’t just have simple food, since we are guests they want to treat us to nice restaurants and fancy food. I appreciate it, of course, but I wish we didn’t have to order twenty dishes and that it wouldn’t take two hours for people to eat. Okay, I’d do that once a day, but certainly not at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

And deep down, I’m more into 小吃, street food or eatery staple foods such as steamed buns, tofu dish, spicy noodles, rice and veggies, etc.

“So, did you like the food? Or are you going to run to McDonald’s with Feng?” Feng’s cousin joked the first time we had dinner together.

“I’m French,” I replied. “French don’t run to McDonald’s, they burn them down.”

I’m not sure why the Chinese are convinced that Westerners don’t like their food. Well, many don’t I guess. But I love Chinese food in general—the spices, the flavours, the textures. Okay, I usually don’t crave snake or dog meat (a Hunan specialty), nor chicken feet or pig intestine. I’m happy with just, you know, chicken, beef or pork, regular meat cuts. I love tofu and bean curd. I can have steamed buns, dumplings and Chinese-style pancakes anytime. And I’m pleased to report that sweet bread (often with coconut) is delicious. And egg tarts! Thanks, Portugal for that one, they are originally from Macau and can be found anywhere on the mainland now.

I tasted a lot of foods to please the family. I enjoyed the famous Hunan dish of steamed eggs, like a French flan but savoury. I wasn’t a big fan of Wuhan’s specialty, fried rice between fried eggs—too greasy—but I had 热干面 (literally ‘hot dry noodles”, noodles with a spicy peanut sauce) several times a day, even though it’s technically breakfast food. I loved spicy eggplants, tofu dish, meat with beans, shredded potatoes, fresh fish…

I’m often surprised by how cheap the food is. A bowl of noodles and a few steamed pieces of bread are about 10 yuan, this is less than $2 (for the French readers who can still remember Wuhan francs, it’s easy: one yuan equals one franc!). Of course, in fancy restaurants, it can be much more expensive but you often pay for the atmosphere and a sense of cleanness. Many middle-class Chinese think street food is dirty, even though it’s made right in front of you—fancy restaurants can have not-so-spotless kitchens!

On our last day in Changsha, Feng and I decided to try stinky tofu, a kind of fermented aged tofu that… well, stinks. And oh boy, it stinks! The smell is unmistakable. I was wondering what it was at first, and I thought it was blood sausage or some strange meat. Once I learned it was tofu, the gross factor disappeared—weird.

Stinky tofu doesn’t stink anymore after it’s fried, and it’s actually not bad at all, although very spicy. Mark wasn’t a fan, though…

Beef Noodles
Beef Noodles
Yes, Dog on the Menu
Yes, Dog on the Menu
油条, Fried Dough (Breakfast Treat)
油条, Fried Dough (Breakfast Treat)
Rice and Egg, Wuhan's Specialty
Rice and Egg, Wuhan’s Specialty
Steamed Buns and Noodles in Hankou
Steamed Buns and Noodles in Hankou
Steamed Buns
Steamed Buns
Meat Skewers
Meat Skewers
Street Food
Street Food
Fried Dough
Fried Dough
Street Food
Street Food
Dumplings
Dumplings
Buns
Buns
Street Food
Street Food
Pig Feet
Pig Feet
Donut Skewers
Donut Skewers
Donut Skewers
Donut Skewers
Cakes
Cakes
Dumplings
Dumplings
Snack Street in Hankou
Snack Street in Hankou
Coconuts
Coconuts
Noodles
Noodles
Egg Tarts
Egg Tarts
Bakery
Bakery
小笼包 (Shanghai-Style Dumplings)
小笼包 (Shanghai-Style Dumplings)
小笼包 (Shanghai-Style Dumplings)
小笼包 (Shanghai-Style Dumplings)
Rice and Veggies
Rice and Veggies
Eating Chili
Eating Chili
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience
The Stinky Tofu Experience

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22 Comments

  1. Isa September 19, 2014 at 5:43 am

    Maybe too much fried stuff to my taste?
    From the very little I know of it, I’m not a big fan of Chinese food (you know, the common chinese one you can find everywhere, not the regional specialties)!

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:00 am

      Same here, too much fired stuff. That’s why I like steamed bread!

      Reply
  2. Shannon September 19, 2014 at 5:50 am

    Okay, you just made me super hungry (except for the part about dog and other weird meat). Bon appetit!

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:00 am

      Merci!

      Reply
  3. Lynn September 19, 2014 at 7:57 am

    I’m hungry too, now…except for that stinky tofu, which is not too pretty. I had my first egg tart ever a few weeks ago – they sell them here in town at the Carisse Studio Cafe on Elgin street. Is there anywhere in Ottawa you recommend for authentic Chinese food?

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:01 am

      Sadly, not really. I should write a post on Ottawa’s Chinatown… I used to know a couple of good places but they are closed now.

      Reply
  4. vad September 19, 2014 at 9:01 am

    Thanks for sharing your Chinese adventures. I was waiting for a post on food! I wonder how Chinese people can eat all the time and are not fat. I guess little Mark didn’t like the stinky tofu by the look of his face. lol The stinky tofu looks like a grilled fish skin. Are you tired of chinese food already? my husband would complain after a full week at my parent’s house for eating rice every single day.

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:03 am

      Strangely, I’m not sick of Chinese food. There are so many things to try…

      Reply
  5. La Madame September 19, 2014 at 10:45 am

    La vérité sort de la bouche des enfants! 😉

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:03 am

      Vrai!

      Reply
  6. Bee Ean September 19, 2014 at 3:30 pm

    Well, you sound like my husband. my family wanted to feed him all the times at his first few trips. But now I would tell them that my husband enjoys street foods. I also let him choose the kind of food he wants then I invite my family to go with us. He got used to bun stuff with coconut or other salty fillings and he tried sticky tofu (I didn’t dare).

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:12 am

      That’s a great compromise!

      Reply
  7. petite yaye September 19, 2014 at 5:02 pm

    In france I really feel like eating all the timing. Breakfast, second breakfast with no-child adults, apero time, lunch, digestif, coffee time, goûter + tea time, first apero, second apero, diner, tisane time !

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:13 am

      They sure drink a lot!

      Reply
  8. Martin Penwald September 19, 2014 at 10:39 pm

    You should try Maroilles, a cheese from Nord of France. Very good, but relatively awful to smell.

    Reply
    1. Zhu September 22, 2014 at 10:14 am

      I don’t think I have ever smelled it. Okay, on my list now!

      Reply
  9. Mel September 23, 2014 at 11:42 am

    Aaaaand now I’m hungry. I’m pretty sure I could eat dumplings for breakfast, lunch and dinner 😉
    Love the last photo of Mark!!

    Reply
    1. Zhu October 2, 2014 at 9:14 am

      You should meet Feng’s family, they would feed you non-stop.

      Reply

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