I realized I would spend Easter in Brazil seconds after booking my ticket and stating, “April 1—sounds good, right before Easter!”
“When is Easter?” Feng asked, already Googling the dates.
He scanned the page and burst out laughing. “Good Friday is on March 29 and Easter Monday is on April 1!”
Damn. I always forget that Easter is a moveable holiday.
And it’s only last week that I also realized I had no idea how Brazilians celebrate Easter or even what this holiday means to them.
“Don’t forget to shop before sexta!” my Brazilian friend reminded me on Monday.
“Why Friday?” I texted back.
“Feriado. Most shops will be closed.”
And this is when I realized that Good Friday was a holiday in Brazil.
“How about Monday?”
“What about Monday? Business as usual.”
And this is when I realized Easter Monday was not a holiday in Brazil.
I realized a lot of things about Easter this year.
“Why would Monday be a holiday?” he asked seconds later.
“In Canada, both Good Friday and Easter Monday are holidays,” I explained. “In France, only Easter Monday is a holiday.”
“But from the Bible perspective, it doesn’t make sense to make Monday a holiday…”
“Wanna argue about what makes sense in the Bible?” I texted with a “lol” emoji. “Nothing. Nothing makes sense in the Bible.”
However, it now explained why shops were busier than usual—everything was closing on Friday.
I didn’t need chocolate—it melts too fast.
However, I needed a plan for my last week in Brazil. This is usually when I get sad, afraid of the future, you get the picture.
I find we’ve all been stuck in a spiral of losses since the pandemic. We lost time, lost money with inflation, lost lovedones, lost patience often, lost hope sometimes.
I feel a bit lost myself.
So I embarked on a quest to see beautiful things. Humans can start wars but also create amazing connections with other humans, and express feelings in unique ways.
Eight museums and cultural centres later, I felt happier. The world is crazy right now but maybe this is just a bump on the road and something good will eventually come out of this mess.
Thank you, Brazil, for easy and cheap access to culture—most of these places offer free admission, and the highest fee I paid was 15 reais ($3).
And by the way, Easter is pretty uneventful in Salvador. The city was quieter than usual—I’m guessing locals go away for the long weekend.
In case it wasn’t obvious, Salvador has deep roots in Africa—slaves were brought to Brazil from the West Coast of Africa and today, more than three quarters of Baienses have roots on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.
Many slaves came from Benin and positive ties remain between both countries. The Casa do Benin in the Pelourinho is a cultural centre featuring an amazing Afro-Brazilian artistic and cultural collection with 200 pieces from the Gulf of Benin—collected by French photographer Pierre Verger—and fabric from the plastic artist and designer Goya Lopes.
Wandering around the Casa do Benin was a one-way ticket to Benin. The media often depict Africa negatively—think poverty, civil war, corruption, famine, etc. But these amazing artworks show a different side of it and tell fascinating stories.
Casa do Benin, Santo Antonio, Salvador – State of Bahia, 40026-280Casa do Benin, Santo Antonio, Salvador – State of Bahia, 40026-280Casa do Benin, Santo Antonio, Salvador – State of Bahia, 40026-280
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
Slaves and freedmen built this church for the Brotherhood, and it was a slow process—it took almost a century to complete it since they were working on it in their spare time.
The church is one of the many examples of the African influence in Salvador. It’s Catholic but with many Candomblé elements.
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, Largo do Pelourinho, s/n – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280
Museu de Arte da Bahia
This museum is one of my classic stops because it’s free and it’s located on the endless Avenida Sete de Setembro I always take to walk from Barra to the Pelourinho.
This time, the upstairs was closed but the downstairs featured an exhibition on Rodin and his friends.
Museu de Arte da Bahia, Av. Sete de Setembro, 2340 – Corredor da Vitória, Salvador – BA, 40080-004Museu de Arte da Bahia, Av. Sete de Setembro, 2340 – Corredor da Vitória, Salvador – BA, 40080-004Museu de Arte da Bahia, Av. Sete de Setembro, 2340 – Corredor da Vitória, Salvador – BA, 40080-004
Museu da Gastronomia Baiana
I went to get my legs waxed this week (TMI?) and the employee wanted to chat about foods and cultural differences.
“Do you like Bahia food?” she asked.
“I do! But I cook when I travel,” I explained. “I tried most classic Bahia foods in comida a kilo restaurants but I wouldn’t cook a moqueca just for me.”
“Oh, it’s not difficult! You just need fish, like a big fish. Then coconut milk, and a lot of dendê oil. And then you add—”
And she went on listing about five hundred ingredients. This is exactly why I don’t cook the traditional Bahia stew.
“But I think I like everything in Brazil,” I added. “Except maybe chicken heart skewers.”
She looked at me.
“Really? But it’s delicious!”
Thank but no thanks. Chicken legs, chicken breast but not chicken heart. Feels like voodoo.
Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, Largo do Pelourinho, 13/19 – Pelourinho, Salvador – BA, 40026-280
Museu do Mar – Aleixo Belov
This museum had been on my list for a while. It’s at the very end of the lovely walk through Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, you can’t miss the big yellow house.
I was too cheap to pay the 15 reais so I went on a Wednesday.
I was expecting a maritime museum but in fact, it features artifacts that Ukraine-born sailor Aleixo Belov brought back from his five trips around the world. It’s interesting but it feels like watching someone’s holiday pictures—ahem, here I am, hoping that reading a travel blog is more engaging…!
The top floor featured his trip through the Northwest Passage and there were pictures of Nunavut. Two Brazilian women were puzzled. “It’s… very bare. Like, no trees. And where do people go to socialize??”
Museu do Mar – Aleixo Belov, Largo de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 2 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA, 40301-330Museu do Mar – Aleixo Belov, Largo de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 2 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA, 40301-330Museu do Mar – Aleixo Belov, Largo de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 2 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA, 40301-330Museu do Mar – Aleixo Belov, Largo de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 2 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA, 40301-330
MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia
The MAM is one of my favourite museums in Salvador because the location, the buildings and the exhibitions are always amazing. It sits right on the Bay of All Saints, in the Solar do Unhão, a 16th-century historical site.
I was lucky to catch an exhibition featuring Walter Firmo’s amazing photographs. They made me smile and feel feelings.
MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155MAM – Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia, Av. Lafayete Coutinho, s/n – Comercio, Salvador – BA, 40301-155
Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia
“I’ll call you in a second,” I texted my mum. “I’m taking the picture of a bathroom because it’s supposed to be art.”
“Seriously?” she texted back.
And then I called and we bitched about contemporary art for thirty minutes because yes, it was an actual bathroom.
Contemporary art isn’t my thing. I don’t get it, I find it pretentious and it doesn’t make me feel anything but boredom.
Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Bahia – MAC Bahia, R. da Graça, 284 – Graça, Salvador – BA, 40150-060
Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra
The Barra Lighthouse is one of my favourite places to hang out at sunset and the museum inside is also on my top list.
The collection is fascinating and you can climb to the top of the lighthouse for great views of Barra.
Av. Sete de Setembro – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-110Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra, Largo do Farol da Barra, S/N – Barra, Salvador – BA, 40140-650Share this article!
I loved it when you said: Wanna argue what makes sens in the bible? lol! Excellent!
In Canada, it depends. If you work for construction or gouvernement, monday is a day off. Not for others though. My brother works on monday.
Superbe résumé de la raison d’être du voyage et de la culture !
Easy access to culture is a perk. I love Brazil for that.
I loved it when you said: Wanna argue what makes sens in the bible? lol! Excellent!
In Canada, it depends. If you work for construction or gouvernement, monday is a day off. Not for others though. My brother works on monday.
Schools are always closed on Monday in Ontario (…I think??). Friday as well or maybe it’s a default PD day, I can’t remember.
The Bible is… ahem, quite metaphorical 😆