Ever heard of João Pessoa, in the state of Paraíba?

Yeah, it’s a long way from Rio de Janeiro, I know.

Much like Maceió or Cabo Frio, João Pessoa is one of those lovely cities I discovered by accident—years after locals had already told me about it—simply because I looked at a map and decided to stop somewhere between two places I did know.

I ended up in João Pessoa a few years ago while travelling between Natal and Recife, and I immediately fell in love with it. It’s an easy place to like because it has everything—Fortaleza can be gritty, Natal can be sandy, but João Pessoa hits the sweet spot. It’s urban, but the closest beaches at the end of the street are very decent. You can easily book a very Brazilian passeio to explore the coast. It’s laid-back and very affordable, it’s safe, and people are super nice.

From Natal, João Pessoa is an easy three-hour bus ride south down the coast—and yes, no suspense or drama, it was an easy ride except it was freezing with the air con and everybody seemed in a bad mood with a Monday pós-Carnaval hangover.

I didn’t feel like booking a passeio down the coast just yet. I was quite happy with Praia de Cabo Branco at the end of the street. It’s clean enough, the water is bath-warm, and the waves aren’t too strong—looking at you, Fortaleza and Natal.

I napped on the beach, read on the beach, and eventually walked along the beach up to the cliffs and the road leading to João Pessoa’s claim to worldwide fame—the easternmost point of the Americas, with the easternmost coconut trees and, of course, the easternmost coconut water opportunity.

It’s lovely up there.

And everywhere in João Pessoa.

And around.

Time to go explore the coast.