I first realized Brasília may no longer be that futuristic when we started looking for Airbnb options.
Feng and I argued about it, actually—not the going to Brasília part but where to stay.
His first pick looked perfect. I was about to click on “Book now” when I decided to check the reviews first, just in case. There were not good, which meant the apartment must have been downright terrible because Brazilians are very gracious on Airbnb, unlike American on Expedia, who give one star because “the staff doesn’t speak English and my Amex didn’t work.”
So I vetoed the first Airbnb. Big deal, how hard can it be to find a place in Brazil’s national capital? We’re not talking about a tiny beach town during high season, this is the Brazilian highlands, no beach and no politics in the middle of summer either.
But in fact, most apartments were very “meh” and didn’t look futuristic at all. Weird. Big Brazilian cities are typically very modern, with plenty of high-rise condos.
“It doesn’t matter!” Feng said. “Just pick one!”
We went with the best available option. The location was great, with a ridiculously steep staircase across the road leading to a giant shopping mall. But the flush was broken and the “kitchen” wasn’t much of a kitchen. It came with an unsteady (one support peg was missing) portable camping stove with a plug right above the sink (suicide cooking after your suicide shower, maybe?).
Since the flush was broken, the Airbnb host, a real estate agency, offered us another apartment on the same floor for the first night. “Use both places, and we will send someone to fix the flush!”
Guess what, the flush was also broken in the second apartment. But in the end, we kept both apartments for the four days, which was very convenient—I left the guys alone in 410 and had a place to myself in 402—no TV in the background, no freezing air-con and nobody playing Candy Crush!
Brasília, DFBrasília, DFAsa Norte, DF, BrazilAsa Norte, DF, BrazilAsa Norte, DF, BrazilSHN, Quadra 01, Bloco C, Área especial A – Asa Norte, Brasília – DF, 70701-000, BrazilSHN, Quadra 01, Bloco C, Área especial A – Asa Norte, Brasília – DF, 70701-000, BrazilThe ridiculously steep staircase leading to the shopping mall, SHN, Quadra 01, Bloco C, Área especial A – Asa Norte, Brasília – DF, 70701-000, BrazilShopping Conjunto Nacional, SDN, CNB – Asa Norte, Brasília – DF, 70077-900, Brazil
Brasília’s unique atmosphere
We had four days to explore this airplane-shaped city on foot. It turned out to be remarkably easy, with the main sights along one road.
“Where are the people?”
“I feel like I’m in Ottawa…”
We were looking at empty roads and empty sidewalks. Zombie attack or just normal life in Brasília?
Normal life, apparently. The city was designed for cars. Don’t look for busy streets, there are none—mall food courts are consistently packed, though. On a side note, there are remarkably few supermarkets around and I found prices higher than in most Brazilian cities.
Juscelino Kubitschek, president of Brazil from 1956 to 1961, ordered Brasília’s construction and the city was carefully planned with various areas designed for recreation, shopping, living and working. You don’t come over for the great atmosphere but for the modern, futuristic architecture. Ever heard of Brazil’s most famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer? Well, you will “meet” him in Brasília. He was the chief architect of most public buildings.
Setor Cultural Norte – Brasília, DF, 70297-400, BrazilSetor Cultural Norte – Brasília, DF, 70297-400, BrazilSPO – Brasília, Brasilia – Federal District, 70610-200, BrazilSBS Lote 32, Ed. Sede III, Q. 1 BL G – Asa Sul, DF, 70073-901, BrazilSBS Lote 32, Ed. Sede III, Q. 1 BL G – Asa Sul, DF, 70073-901, Brazil
And so we discovered the Biblioteca Nacional de Brasília, the funky Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, and the Museu Nacional da República.
I was most interested in the Esplanada dos Ministérios, a long walk with government buildings on both sides and giant mango trees everywhere. It ends with the Palácio Itamaraty, headquarters of Foreign Affairs and one of Niemeyer’s masterpieces, and the Palácio do Congresso Nacional.
SBS Lote 32, Ed. Sede III, Q. 1 BL G – Asa Sul, DF, 70073-901, BrazilBiblioteca Nacional de Brasília Leonel de Moura Brizola, Setor Cultural da República, Área Cívica, Lote s/n Edíficio da Biblioteca Nacional, SCTS – Brasília, DF, 70070-150, BrazilBiblioteca Nacional de Brasília Leonel de Moura Brizola, Setor Cultural da República, Área Cívica, Lote s/n Edíficio da Biblioteca Nacional, SCTS – Brasília, DF, 70070-150, BrazilBiblioteca Nacional de Brasília Leonel de Moura Brizola, Setor Cultural da República, Área Cívica, Lote s/n Edíficio da Biblioteca Nacional, SCTS – Brasília, DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilSetor Cultural Sul – Brasília, DF, 70297-400, BrazilCatedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilCatedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilWhen you get churros from a trunk, Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, Esplanada dos Ministérios lote 12 – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilEsplanada dos Ministérios Bloco J – Esplanada dos Ministérios – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilEsplanada dos Ministérios Bloco J – Esplanada dos Ministérios – Brasília, DF, 70050-000, BrazilPalácio Itamaraty, Zona Cívico-Administrativa BL H – Brasília, DF, 70170-900, BrazilPalácio Itamaraty, Zona Cívico-Administrativa BL H – Brasília, DF, 70170-900, BrazilPalácio Itamaraty, Zona Cívico-Administrativa BL H – Brasília, DF, 70170-900, BrazilPalácio Itamaraty, Zona Cívico-Administrativa BL H – Brasília, DF, 70170-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilSCTS – Brasília, Brasilia – Federal District, 70297-400, BrazilSCTS – Brasília, Brasilia – Federal District, 70297-400, BrazilSCTS – Brasília, Brasilia – Federal District, 70297-400, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, BrazilMUSEU Nacional da República, Setor Cultural Sul, Lote 2 próximo à Rodoviária do Plano Piloto, Brasília – DF, 70070-150, Brazil
Inside the National Congress Palace
I was super excited when I discovered we could actually visit the Palácio do Congresso Nacional—it’s free, just bring your passport. It’s so rare these days to explore important buildings, everything everywhere in the world is off-limits because of security.
But the Palácio do Congresso Nacional is open to all, even after the 2023 attempt coup. I like the symbol. This is democracy.
We were given a warm welcome, a script in English (the tour was in Portuguese), a visitor tag and a postcard to mail for free from the building. I found the tour very interesting. I spent a lot of time inside the Canadian Parliament when I was working for the Liberal Party, so it felt somewhat familiar… minus the crucifix on the wall.
Congresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilMarking writing the postcard to my mum, Congresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilCongresso Nacional, Palácio do Congresso Nacional – Praça dos 3 Poderes, Brasília – DF, 70160-900, BrazilEsplanada dos Ministérios BL P – Brasília, DF, 70048-900, BrazilEsplanada dos Ministérios BL P – Brasília, DF, 70048-900, BrazilEsplanada dos Ministérios BL P – Brasília, DF, 70048-900, Brazil
So, should you go to Brasília?
I didn’t fall in love with Brasília. It reminds me too much of a much warmer version of Ottawa—it’s a city designed for cars and government workers, and it’s not super fun. But it’s very safe, more walkable than it seems and it’s interesting to explore a planned city with architectural masterpieces.
It’s worth stopping in Brasília… on the way.
And we are on the way.
Tomorrow, we’re boarding two different planes to two different countries.
Doesn’t it look like the villain headquarters in movies?? Polícia Federal – Sede, SCN, Quadra 4, Bloco A Torres B, C e D do Edifício Multibrasil Corporate – Asa Norte, Brasília – DF, 70714-903, Brazil Fonte da Torre, 255, SHN – Brasília, DF, Brazil
