“Go to ‘Transport’ at the top… huh, weird, you have to enter a PIN code.”
“I KNOW!”
“What’s your PIN code?”
“I DON’T KNOW!”
“Didn’t you write it down?”
“Of course, I did. And I entered it twenty times already, and it’s not this PIN code.”
“Maybe it’s because it’s a new phone.”
“Maybe.”
I’m pretty sure the giant panda painted on the wall of the Workers’ Stadium Station was laughing at us. Who doesn’t know how to use Zhīfùbǎo, really?
Westerners. Westerners don’t always master Zhīfùbǎo (支付宝 or Alipay in English) or Wēixìn (微信 or Wechat). Yet both apps are pretty much mandatory to get around in China—you can use either one to pay, take the subway, scan various QR codes to access mini programs to buy train tickets, museum tickets, and more.
You don’t need a wallet in China, you need a phone and in-depth knowledge of both apps.
We managed to set up our accounts last year, and it was no small feat. We had to upload ID documents, have them verified, take a million selfies for face recognition, link credit cards, and more. Both apps are serious business, you can’t just create multiple accounts, so you just have to pray they work as planned.
Eventually, I found the “reset password button,” passed the security check (whatever that meant), re-uploaded my passport and took a selfie, all that while standing at the entrance of the subway station. The panda must have been in stitches by then.
“Please choose a new password… OMG, OMG, I’m in!”
And just like that, I produced a barcode, my virtual ticket to ride the Beijing subway.
I don’t remember much about Sunday night. We weren’t drunk, but the long flight left us dazed and confused. Somehow, I managed to speak Chinese, find my way around the neighbourhood, order food, test my VPN and the above-mentioned apps—”All good,” we asserted before passing out in bed.
And then it was Monday morning, we were most definitely in Beijing, and we had plans… oh, wait, we didn’t.
We decided to aim for a place we had never visited before—the Bell Tower and Drum Tower. It’s a long and steep climb to the top of both, standing at respectively 47 and 33 metres above ground.
We spent the rest of the day wandering around Nanluoguxiang, a narrow pedestrian alley in the old part of the city. Then, at night, we strolled Qianmen Avenue, another popular street in old Beijing.
We had tickets to the Forbidden City on Tuesday—most tourist attractions have to be booked ahead, and it’s a competitive game because millions of Chinese quite enjoy exploring their own country.
We took the subway to Tiananmen East and we had to go through the mandatory security checkpoint. You used to be able to just walk on Tiananmen Square and around but we discovered last year that it’s a lot more difficult now. First, you must have tickets to one of the attractions around Tiananmen Square, such as the Mausoleum of Mao, the National Museum of China, or the Forbidden City. Or you can just book your free Tiananmen tour a day in advance on WeChat or Alipay. You’ll tour around on your own, and no Red Guard will follow you. I promise.
Then you have to line up to have your ID checked and your bags scanned. Warning, all lighters will be confiscated for mysterious reasons, unless you know about the rule and hide your lighter in your bag like I did.
Phew. We reached Tiananmen Square, then headed towards the Forbidden City, only to discover that it was closed due to the previous night’s downpour. Fair enough. Our part of the city wasn’t affected much, but the streets flooded, like in Brazil…
Never mind. We headed to Wangfujing, a busy and popular pedestrian street, and then we stopped in the Guomao neighbourhood to check out the modern side of the city. Feng and I headed out to Xidan at night, and then we packed.
Beijing was just step one of the trip—we want to explore places we’ve never been before.
