Nanjing in Eight Stops – Centuries of History and Nine Days of Exploring

We explored the hell out of Nanjing for nine days, which is a lifetime in travellers’ time.

Yet, I still don’t know what to think of the city.

But I didn’t develop this weird emotional bond I tend to form with random places around the world that makes me tell Feng, “I wish I could live here. Eh, why don’t we change our plane ticket and settle there for a while?” (I tried it with Santiago for years, still lobbying for anywhere in Brazil).

Beijing is revolutionary red and classical Chinese culture at the same time, Shanghai is posh and international, Zhengzhou was a bit of a culture shock, Xi’an was fun, Chongqing was weirdly exotic, Chengdu was relaxing, Shenyang is pure Dōngběi (northeast China) working-class culture…

I guess Nanjing was both easy and comfortable—no local accent, nothing super weird, just normal city life, beep beep, get out of the way, the car is driving on the sidewalk and the motorbikes are in the bike lane. On the practical side, we had great apartments (cheap and clean too!), plenty of convenience stores around, a reliable subway system and enough sights to keep us busy.

Nanjing will forever be the place where I developed an Auntea Jenny milk tea addiction, where I learned to bike through traffic and where I did not eat duck. We explored Shanghai and Suzhou nearby, and now it’s time to go.

“We’ve been everywhere in Nanjing!”

Yes, maybe we have.

That was the point, wasn’t it?

As with anywhere else in China, it pays to know basic Chinese history. Nothing can explain the ducks though.

Fūzǐmiào (夫子庙)

Back in 2000, Fūzǐmiào was more like a bazaar selling CDs of Bryan Adams (China was obsessed with Bryan Adams, or maybe our dear Canadian was trying to flood the Chinese market, who knows).

Now, Fūzǐmiào is a mostly pedestrian district with quiet sun-baked streets during the day that morphs into a super crowded market at night with eateries, souvenir shops and boat trips.

Feng and I stepped into what looked like a dragon cave one night and we ended up in a panda souvenir shop along with seemingly thousands of people.

Fūzǐmiào is this kind of place. It’s colourful, messy, perfect for “I was at Fūzǐmiào” pics.

It’s fun. But crowded. Emphasis on crowded.

Lóngmén (龙门, Nanjing)

Lóngmén is another nightlife hotspot, and during the day, it’s full of people in hànfú getting the perfect shot. The streets are arguably more picturesque than Fūzǐmiào with their old-town atmosphere—think whitewashed walls, grey tile roofs, red lanterns, narrow lanes, willow trees, and the mix of historic buildings with tourist life.

Part of it is bordered by the massive defensive wall built during the Ming dynasty (14th century) when Nanjing was the capital of China under the Hongwu Emperor, born Zhu Yuanzhang (Hóngwǔ, 洪武). It adds to its charm, not that you will notice it at night when the district lights up and more people are queuing at Chagee for pimped-up milk tea than reflecting on history.

Nanjing Presidential Palace (Nánjīng Zǒngtǒngfǔ, 南京总统府)

A bit of history helps here too.

The Nanjing Presidential Palace was a centre of political power through several periods of Chinese history: it was a Ming princely residence, became Qing government offices, was transformed into the Taiping Heavenly King’s palace during the Taiping Rebellion, and eventually became the Presidential Office of Sun Yat-sen, who served briefly as provisional president in Nanjing.

The complex was huge, crowded and there was no air con… except in the area focusing on China after 1949, during the early Mao years. Feng and I couldn’t stop laughing—communism brought you air con, people, come on over!

Six Dynasties Museum (Liùcháo Bówùguǎn, 六朝博物馆)

For a deep dive into China’s seriously old history, the Six Dynasties Museum is a great stop. It focuses on the “Six Dynasties” (220–589)—Eastern Wu (Dōng Wú, 东吴), Eastern Jin (Dōng Jìn, 东晋), Liu Song (Liú Sòng, 刘宋), Southern Qi (Nán Qí, 南齐), Southern Liang (Nán Liáng, 南梁), and Southern Chen (Nán Chén, 南陈).

Oh, I’m sorry, did I lose you somewhere?

The fun part is that the modern and minimalist museum was built around archaeological remains of the Six Dynasties capital site, including sections of ancient city walls and foundations preserved inside the building.

Jīmíng Temple (鸡鸣寺)

Jīmíng Temple is one of the oldest and most famous Buddhist temples in Nanjing. The panoramic views over the city are great, but I found it just so-so, much like Confucius Temple in Fūzǐmiào. We’ve seen more lively and atmospheric temples in Beijing and Kaifeng.

Chāotiān Palace (朝天宫)

During the Ming dynasty, when Nanjing was the capital, the complex became an important place for royal ceremonies and court rituals. It was a lovely peaceful place to explore, and no crowds!

Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Zhōngshān Líng, 中山陵)

Back in 2000, I took a motorcycle taxi here. Now the subway gets you close to the site, and then a modern 10 yuan shuttle (with air con, if you’re lucky) takes you up where you can have a coffee, five milk teas, some duck and more before climbing the many steps to the mausoleum.

If you want to see a sea of umbrellas and a nice view of the city, this is the place to be. Good luck with the climb, though, especially when it’s 45°C.

Southeast Lake, Xuánwǔ Lake (玄武湖东南湖)

At night, to escape the Lóngmén or Fūzǐmiào crowd, Feng and I went to walk around Nanjing’s most famous urban lake. It sits beside the Ming City Wall and it’s very peaceful (at least the stretch without restaurants is!).

Nanjing, we’ll see you again. Bring your own duck.