I’ve never felt the need to Google “what to do in João Pessoa?” because the top answer is pretty obvious. I can see the ocean from my window on the 13th floor and I’m quite a few blocks from the waterfront. João Pessoa is a beach city with a long long beach, a beach so long that it’s actually several beaches with different names and atmospheres. I’m not sure where Cabo Branco, Tambaú, Manaíra or Bessa starts or finishes—third coconut trees on the left, maybe? I’m sure the locals know. People take the beach very seriously here.
João Pessoa’s beaches are very decent beaches for a city and state capital. For the wow and better pictures, you can always go further south, but I swam at Cabo Branco, Tambaú and Manaíra, and I would have swum at Bessa as well but I got tired.
When you’re tired of the beach or when the sun sets around 5:40 p.m., just put your Havaianas and some clothes on—anything will do, really, we’re all pretending we’re fully dressed around here—and start walking along the orla, the waterfront. It’s always busy, always fun, always relaxing.
Enjoy.
Repeat the next day.
I stumbled upon João Pessoa by luck a few years ago, just like I found out about Maceió long after anyone else in Brazil. Excuse me, I’m a foreigner, my kind tends to flock to Rio de Janeiro or Foz do Iguaçu, not mysterious Nordeste state capitals. I mean, can you find an entire chapter about the state of Paraíba in your guidebook? Yeah, neither can I.
I immediately felt comfortable in João Pessoa. It’s a big city but it’s very walkable, it’s busy but not sketchy, and it has everything I need—beaches, attractions, lovely viewpoints, and friendly locals.
The view from my window, Av. Cel. Miguel Sátiro, 353 – Cabo Branco
Beaches, plural
Bessa Beach is cleaner and quieter but I quite like the atmosphere at Tambaú with all the tables, chairs and plenty of people. Locals come for a swim after their workday… regardless of whether they can swim or not.
João Pessoa’s beaches are very low pressure. You can rent a table and chairs or just put your stuff on the sand, it’s okay, it’s safe. And once in the water, people are super talkative.
Largo da Gameleira, Orla marítima de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000Praia de Tambaú, Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58039-010Praia de Tambaú, Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58039-010Praia de Tambaú, Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58039-010Praia de Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58046-010Praia de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000
The Easternmost point of the Americas
Trump has yet to disagree with this one. He probably has never heard of it, else it would have signed an executive order locating the Easternmost point in one of the Trump Towers.
There’s absolutely nothing to see at the Easternmost point except a lighthouse and the Easternmost coconut tree but it’s a fun hike uphill and a lovely viewpoint over the city.
Av. Cabo Branco- Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58045-010The Easternmost point of the Americas, Av. Cabo Branco – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58046-010The Easternmost point of the Americas, Av. Cabo Branco – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58046-010Av. Cabo Branco – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58046-010Av. Cabo Branco – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58046-010Av. Cabo Branco- Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58045-010
The historic centre
João Pessoa’s historic centre is located inland, about 8 km from the waterfront. Few people bother to make the trip because, well, the beach keeps them busy. I felt bad about missing out on cultural experiences so I explored the huge Centro Cultural São Francisco and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo.
The centre is quite chaotic with plenty of old buildings in various states of decay, but parts of it are picturesque.
Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Centro Cultural São Francisco, Ladeira São Francisco, S/N – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-650Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Dom Adauto, s/n – Centro, João Pessoa – PB, 58010-670
The waterfront
João Pessoa’s waterfront is packed from sunset to midnight. This is where everybody hangs out, eats, buys corn or a new swimsuit, gets a foot massage, plays football in the middle of the street, boards the loud “party bus,” book passeios for the next day, drink, explore night markets and more.
Keep in mind it’s still around 30 °C at night and you will understand why some are still going for a swim—hey, why not?
Is João Pessoa the most fascinating Brazilian city? Probably not. But it’s cozy, friendly and comfortable, I could have stayed much, much longer.
Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Largo da Gameleira, Orla marítima de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000Largo da Gameleira, Orla marítima de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000Largo da Gameleira, Orla marítima de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000Largo da Gameleira, Orla marítima de Manaíra – Tambaú, João Pessoa – PB, 58038-000Manaíra, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000Manaíra, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000Manaíra, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Av. Alm. Tamandaré, s/n – Cabo Branco, João Pessoa – PB, 58039-010Bessa, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000Bessa, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000Bessa, João Pessoa – State of Paraíba, 58038-000The view from my window, Av. Cel. Miguel Sátiro, 353 – Cabo BrancoThe view from my window, Av. Cel. Miguel Sátiro, 353 – Cabo Branco
